Welcome to SP!  -
Zion National Park
Area/Range
Contribute 
 
Children 
 
[ 6 More ]
 
 
 
 
Geography
Parents 
Areas & Ranges
[ 8 More ]
 

Zion National Park

 
Zion National Park

Page Type: Area/Range

Location: Utah, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.25834°N / 112.9469°W

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Toprope, Bouldering, Ice Climbing, Aid Climbing, Big Wall, Mixed, Via Ferrata, Canyoneering

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

 

Page By: Bob Sihler

Created/Edited: Jan 12, 2006 / May 8, 2013

Object ID: 171229

Hits: 26217 

Page Score: 99.38%  - 108 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Overview

 Under Reconstruction-- I am reworking this page, but all essential information is here.
Cathedral Mountain from the...
 

Undeniably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States, southwestern Utah’s Zion National Park is most known among adventurers for two things - world-class canyoneering and awesome big wall climbing.

Other than the Zion classic, Angels Landing, peakbagging in Zion has never really taken off. Maybe it’s the understandable distraction of all the unbelievable scenery in the park that pulls people away from the presumably-unclimbable peaks above them; perhaps it’s those peaks’ typically chossy rock that steers people away; perhaps it’s what was once an unfortunate lack of route beta to be found out there; or perhaps it’s the atrocious nature of many of the approaches…long and bushwhacky; or the technical nature of some of the approaches…sketchy climbing on bad rock, multiple rappels from natural anchors of questionable fortitude, and whatnot. Who knows?

For these, and perhaps other, reasons, a number of peaks in Zion National Park have no documented ascents – Ivins Mountain, and others. This peak didn’t see its first ascent until 2001.

If nothing else, the park’s beauty is substantial, making any trip, for adventure or otherwise, certainly rewarding.

In addition to what you find here, be sure to visit this terrific Zion National Park site.

Not exactly a park full of peak-gimmes, most of Zion's peaks require considerable effort, a lot of nerve, and/or some extraordinary route-finding. Following is an overview of the various peaks, and their routes, as represented on SP.

(The above text is by the original page owner, cp0915.)
 

The Peaks + Routes Overview-- Kolob Terrace

Located some miles west of Zion Canyon and north of Virgin and south of Kolob Reservoir, the Kolob Terrace area holds fantastic scenery; some of the park's best scrambling peaks, including the classic North Guardian Angel and the elusive ultra-classic South Guardian Angel; the world famous semi-technical slot canyon known as the Subway; and, in comparison to Zion Canyon, a feel of being almost deserted.  A good deal of private property abuts this section of the park, but there is still a wild, wide-open feel to much of it.  Be aware that there are no NPS campgrounds out here except for the one at Lava Point, which is several miles north of the best peaks and trails of the Kolob Terrace area.  However, there is some BLM land adjacent to the park out here, and one can camp there for free and with few restrictions.

Spring and fall travelers-- be aware that the Kolob Terrace area is significantly higher than the Zion Canyon area.  Be prepared for temperatures to be at least 10 degrees (F) cooler.

Pine Valley Peak and Cave Knoll
Cave Knoll
West Ridge-- Class 3




East Northgate Peak
North Slopes-- Class 2

North Guardian Angel
East Ridge-- Class 4 (a short, but rather exposed, route with exceptional views)

Pine Valley Peak
East-North Face-- 5.5

South Guardian Angel
Northeast Ridge-- Class 3 (approach can be Class 5)

Tabernacle Dome
Northwest Ridge-- 5.2-5.4

West Northgate Peak
East Face-- Class 3, North Slopes-- Class 2+
Cave Knoll E. Northgate NGA Pine Valley Peak SGA Tabernacle Dome W. Northgate

In and Near Zion Canyon

Zion Canyon-- even if you're a world-class climber who's seen it all or someone who's been into the canyon a hundred times or a first-time visitor, it is impossible not to be awed by this spectacle.

Sheer cliffs and spires rise, in some cases, more than 3000' above the canyon floor, rivaling the great walls of Yosemite Valley.  In the spring and after heavy rains, ephemeral falls pour from the heights, sometimes transforming into misty wisps short of pounding onto the ground below.  The Virgin River, emerging from one of the most famous stretches of narrows in the world, winds its way through cottonwood groves that create a nigh-unbelievable contrast against the red cliffs all around.  In autumn, those cottonwoods turn a burning gold that defies belief.  This is the desert?

Although it can seem incredibly crowded, don't let Zion Canyon even in the busiest times turn you away.  As is always the case, a sense of adventure or some good route beta will remove you from the hordes and transport you to what the canyon's namers saw in it-- Heaven, or Zion.

Angels Landing from Scout...
Angels Landing-- NPS Trail (Class 3), Prodigal Son (IV, 5.8), Ball and Chain (VI, 5.10a, A2+)

Bridge Mountain
Bridge Mountain-- Smash Mouth (5.11+), Take Back the Rainbow (5.10)

Cable Mountain
Cable Mountain-- Many Pools (Class 3+), Echo Canyon (Class 1), East Entrance (Class 1)

Coke Explosion, 5.10
Cathedral Mountain-- Voodoo Rooves (5.10+), Coke Explosion (5.10)

Point 6921 ft, East Face
Deertrap Mountain-- East Entrance, Class 1

The Great White Throne
The Great White Throne-- South Face Diagonal (III, 5.8, A0)

South Face of Mt. Kinesava
Mount Kinesava-- East Face (Class 4), Cowboy Ridge (III, 5.7)

Lady Mtn. (the high,...
Lady Mountain-- South Cliffs (5.7), Chimney Sweep (5.10)

Observation Point and it s...
Observation Point-- Weeping Rock Trailhead-- Class 1

Organ, II, 5.6
The Organ-- SE Chimney, 5.6

Iron Messiah, III, 5.10c
The Spearhead-- Iron Messiah (III, 5.10c)

Mount Spry
Mount Spry-- Holy Roller (5.11), Shark Tooth Freighter (5.10)

The Watchman
The Watchman-- West Face-- Class 4 (with major route-finding issues, fantastic scenery)

West Temple, III, 5.8
West Temple-- Southwest Ridge, 5.8

East Side

Because only one peak east of the Zion-Mt. Carmel tunnel and not considered part of the Zion Canyon group-- Checkerboard Mesa-- has a name on USGS maps, and because there are only two officially maintained trails originating out there-- Tunnel Overlook and East Rim-- the east side is Zion's flyover country, so to speak; the majority of visitors are people on their way to or from Zion Canyon, and they do little more but stop and wander a few yards from the roadside to take some pictures.  Thus, the east side, with its many unnamed peaks and its numerous washes and canyons, is a haven for scramblers and explorers who delight in isolation and secret wonders.  In addition to all the peaks, there are several small slot canyons of varying difficulty levels, including Keyhole Canyon, a dark, very narrow technical slot.  The Pine Creek slot also begins on the east side although it ends west of the tunnel.

"Aires Butte"
-Ariel Trad Climb (SE Face) - 5.6

Checkerboard Mesa
-East Side - class 3

"Destination Peak"
-via Gifford Canyon - class 4

"Lost Peak"
-Clear Creek - Class 3

"South Ariel Peak"
-South Face - class 2-3
-Southeast Face - class 4
Aires Butte Checkerboard Mesa Destination Peak South Ariel Peak Lost Peak

Kolob Canyons

Kolob Canyons, 5.9-5.12+
Kolob
 

Just Outside the Park

Canaan Mountain
Water Canyon-- Class 2

Clear Creek Mountain
Birch Hollow Drainage-- Class 2

Lambs Knoll
Northeast Face-- Class 3
Canaan Mountain Clear Creek Mountain Lambs Knoll

Canyons

From “walk-thru” canyoneering classics like the world-famous Virgin River Narrows (aka – Zion Narrows or “The Narrows”), to semi-technical classics like The Subway (Left Fork of North Creek), and yet still to technical canyoneering epic-builders like Heaps Canyon, Zion canyoneering (click on the link for further, and highly informative, reading) has certainly found itself on the adventurers’ map.

A mere sampling of some of the fine canyoneering adventures available in the park follows. Permits are required for all those listed except for the Hidden Canyon route linked below. Canyon ratings are in parentheses:

-Separation Canyon (1AII)
-Zion Narrows (1BIV)
-Hidden Canyon (2A R II)
-Behunin Canyon (3AIII) - trip report
-Spry Canyon (3AIII) (photo)
-Keyhole Canyon (3BII) (photo)
-Middle Echo (3BII)
-Pine Creek (3BII) (photo)
-Mystery Canyon (3BIII) (photo)
-The Subway (3BIII) (photo)
-Orderville Canyon (3BIV)
-Englestead Canyon (4AIV) (photo)
-Das Boot (4BII) - (photo)
-Imlay Canyon (4B R IV)
-Heaps Canyon (4B R V) (photo)

Canyoneering ratings in a nutshell:

-The first character in the rating, such as the "3" in 3BIII, refers to the technicality of the canyon.

A "1" refers to a non-technical canyon hike. No rope or other technical gear is needed.

A "2" is a basic canyon, wherein one might need to do some scrambling to work through the occasional obstacle. A rope might be useful for assistance with packs, belays, etc. Up-canyon escape options (without fixed ropes) are available.

A "3" is an intermediate-level canyon. There may be actual climbing (and/or downclimbing) and/or rappels involved. A rope will be needed and a retreat upcanyon would necessitate fixed ropes.

A "4" refers to an advanced canyon. Multi-pitch rappels, difficult climbing and/or complex rope work can be expected. Natural anchors may be challenging to establish, and unique canyoneering obstacles, such as keeper potholes and Mae West obstacles, may be present.

-The second character in the rating, such as the "B" in 3BIII, refers to the water volume and current in the canyon.

An "A" means that the canyon is typically dry or contains very little water. Some wading might be needed.

A "B" means that there is water in the canyon. The water should have little or no current. Some swimming can be expected.

A "C" means that there is water in the canyon and it moves swiftly. Expect waterfalls...and expect that wet canyon rope techniques will be needed.

-The third character in the rating, such as the "III" in 3BIII, refers to the grade of the canyon.

A "I" means that the canyon will only take a couple of hours to do.

A "II" means that the canyon should take about half a day to complete.

A "III" means that the canyon can be expected to take most of a day to complete.

A "IV" means that one should expect a long day. A bivy may be required.

A "V" means that the canyon will take about two days to complete.

A "VI" means that the canyon will take two full days (or more) to complete.

Occasionally, a rating will have an "R" or an "X" as well. The "R" means that the canyon is particularly risky. Beginners, even in the presence of solid partners, are not appropriate. An "X" means that the canyon is appropriate for experts only.

Canyoneering, like climbing, is a potentially dangerous activity. Conditions change regularly. Don't bite off more than you can swallow. 'Nuff said.

Refer to Tom Jones' excellent Utah canyoneering site for more info. He's got a Zion canyoneering guidebook out too. Check it out. 
Spry Canyon
 
 
Zion
 
 
The Left Fork of North Creek...
 

Climbing Spots (Short Routes)

Ashtar Tower
-Feeling Minnesota - 5.8 (1 pitch)
-Ashtar Command - 5.9 (2 pitches)



Mrs. Butterworth (located just outside of the main entrance to the park near Springdale, this crag is part of the eye-catching Eagle Crags)
-Aunt Jemima - 5.9 (3 pitches)



Weeping Rock
-Weeping Rock Chimney - 5.7 (185')
-Face-tastic - 5.11 (100’)
-Ion Shadows - 5.11b R (100’)



Cerberus Gendarme
-Cave Route - 5.7- (1 pitch)
-No Holds Barred - 5.8 (40’)
-Cynthia’s Handjob - 5.9 (65’)
-Tails of Flails - 5.9 (100’)
-Aton/Allison/Stern - IV, 5.9-A0 (top of Cerberus)
-Touchstone Wall - IV, 5.9-C2 (8 pitches)
-Squeeze Play - 5.10a (60’)
-Cherry Crack - 5.10c (140’)
-Flip of the Coin - 5.10d (80’)
-The Fat’hedral - 5.10d (150’)
-Face-tastic 5.11 (100’)
-Scarlet Begonias - 5.11a (65’)
-Coconut Corner - III, 5.11a (4 Pitches)
-Fails of Power - 5.11b-c (70’)
-Intruder - 5.11c (65’)
-Electrica - 5.11c-d (120’)
-Dire Wolf - 5.12a-A0 (120’)



The Tunnel Crags
-The Headache - 5.10a (3 pitches)
-Kitty - 5.10-11 (5 pitches)
-Kung-Fu Fighter - II, 5.11a (4 pitches)



The Practice Cliffs
-Casual Sex - 5.7 (1 pitch)
-Unnamed - 5.10 (1 pitch)



The Temple of Sinawava
-Tourist Crack - 5.9 (1 pitch)
-Right Toilet Crack - 5.9 (2 pitches)



The Great White Throne Base
-Scotch on the Rocks - 5.8
-Box Elder Jam - 5.8+
-Free Bird - 5.9
-Rookie Crack - 5.9
-Grasshopper - 5.9+
-Rain - 5.9+
-Psychobolt - 5.10
-Crack of REM - 5.10
-Edge of Delight - 5.10 (2 pitches)
-One for the Road - 5.10a
-Illusion - 5.10a
-Fourplay - 5.11 (2 pitches)
-Twin Crack - 5.11a
-Nemesis - 5.11a

Big Walls

 
Winter AID Playing in ZION
 
 
Ledge Breakfast in ZION
 
 
P-SON...ZION
 
Big wall climbing too. In 1967, Fred Beckey and company completed the park’s first big wall ascent. They climbed the northwest face of The Great White Throne. Since then, big wall climbing in Zion has only grown more popular. On fall days, it’s quite common to see the tiny dots of wall climbers making their slow way up any number of the park’s monstrous sandstone faces.

Getting There

Zion National Park has three entrances:

The main entrance is located on highway 9, just outside of Springdale, Utah.

The park’s east entrance can be found at Mt. Carmel Junction, Utah, also off of highway 9.

And the park’s third entrance, lending access to the Kolob Canyons section of the park, is found off of interstate 15, north of St. George, Utah.

Additionally, the Kolob Terrace [Reservoir] Road, found off of the main highway just a few miles before the park’s main entrance outside of Springdale, gives access to the Kolob Terrace section of the park.


Consult the park’s SP mountain pages for specific directions to a peak (or climbing spot) of interest. Or click on one of the park contact links found on most of the mountain pages for more information.

Miscellaneous

On 2-23-07, Diggler provided the following:

Zion-area showers:

Of interest to many, if not most, car-camping enjoyers of Zion, is where to shower while there. The following establishments, all in Springdale, offer (usually at a nominal fee) showers to the weary traveler (current as of 11/'6):

* Tsunami Java & Juice (ph #: 435.772.3237)- First building on the R when you leave the park from the S entrance; 8.00 - 18.30, 7 days/wk; $4 for unlimited time

* Zion Canyon Campground (ph #: 435.772.3237)- .5 mi from the S entrance of the park on the L side of the road in Springdale; 8.00 - 20.00, 7 days/wk

* Zion Rock & Mtn Guides (435.772.3303)- 1.5 mi from the S entrance of the park on the R side of the road in Springdale; 8.00 - 19.00, 7 days/wk

Operations typically season dependent (i.e. may not be open in winter).

Additions and Corrections

[ Post an Addition or Correction ]
Viewing: 1-1 of 1    
Diggleraddition: Zion-area showers

Diggler

Hasn't voted

Of interest to many, if not most, car-camping enjoyers of Zion, is where to shower while there. The following establishments, all in Springdale, offer (usually at a nominal fee) showers to the weary traveler (current as of 11/'6):



* Tsunami Java & Juice (ph #: 435.772.3237)- First building on the R when you leave the park from the S entrance; 8.00 - 18.30, 7 days/wk; $4 for unlimited time



* Zion Canyon Campground (ph #: 435.772.3237)- .5 mi from the S entrance of the park on the L side of the road in Springdale; 8.00 - 20.00, 7 days/wk



* Zion Rock & Mtn Guides (435.772.3303)- 1.5 mi from the S entrance of the park on the R side of the road in Springdale; 8.00 - 19.00, 7 days/wk



Operations typically season dependent (i.e. may not be open in winter).
Posted Feb 23, 2007 6:59 pm

Viewing: 1-1 of 1    

Images