OverviewThe next missing piece in SP list of Tatra's peaks.
Zlobivá - Żłobisty szczyt - Martaspitze - Mártacsúcs
One of the most impressive Tatra´s peaks situated in the main ridge of High Tatras between Rumanov štít (2428 m) and Západný štít nad Železnou bránou. From Rumanov štít it is separated by Vyšná Zlobná štrbina (2375 m) and from Západný Železný štít by Nižná Zlobná štrbina. This peak is separating Rumanova dolinka Valley from Kačacia dolina Valley. It has three summits in a complex ridge. The highest one is the north-western summit, middle summit (2421 m) is called Wachterova veža and south-eastern summit Zlobná kopa (2420 m). In addition to these summits, there are others, lesser known, as Malá Zlobná kôpka (2353 m) above Nižná Zlobná štrbina or Zlobné zuby between Zlobná bránka and Vyšná Zlobná štrbina. Below Zlobné zuby, there is a distinct ledge in the southern face, called Južná lávka Zlobivej. Similar ledge is situated in the northern face of Zlobivá - Severná lávka Zlobivej.
Between Zlobivá and Popradský Ľadový štít(2400 m) there is a lot of lesser known Tatra peaks. Nižná Zlobná štrbina separates Zlobivá from Západný Železný štít(2360 m). This ridge continues to the east with Snežné kopy - Malá Snežná kopa, Prostredná Snežná kopa (2322 m) and Hrubá Snežná kopa (2310 m) - and finally Východný Železný štít (2340 m), very popular among climbers.
First known ascent:
29. 7. 1899 Karol Jordán and Marta Lavalleé (in honour of this lady was the other name of this peak Martacsúcs or Martaspitze). It is first known ascent, but once they reached the summit, they found a small paper with a name Károly.
The most interesting for climbing is 200 m high south-western face and 400 m high north-eastern face falling to Kačacia dolina Valley (winter ascents).
W. H. Paryski called Zlobivá Żłobisty szczyt. This Polish name is the right one, it corresponds with the traditional meaning of its name, which means "Gully Peak", because the north-eastern slopes are divided by many gullies.
Routes1. From Nižná Zlobná štrbina (2327 m), via SE ridge - follow the ridge to NW to the summit of Malá Zlobná kôpka - Prostredná Zlobná štrbina (2345 m) - Zlobná kopa - Nižná Zlobná lávka - SE ridge of Wachterova veža - Vyšná Zlobná lávka and through the 6 m high chimney to the main summit of Zlobivá. (1 1/2 h, difficulty II-III)
2. From Vyšná Zlobná štrbina (2375 m), the deepest saddle in the ridge between Rumanov štít and Zlobivá - bypassing of NW ridge via Južná lávka Zlobivej or directly via ridge of Zlobné zuby and Zlobná bránka. (3 h, difficulty II-III). First ascent: Z. Klemensiewicz, J. Maślanka - 22.8.1906
3. From Kačacia dolina - north-western face, 400 m high, falling to Kačacia dolina Valley.
Cesta Komarnickich - two-thirds of this route are going through Koryto Zlobivej leading to Vyšná Zlobná štrbina. (5 h, difficulty IV) First ascent: G. Komarnicki, R. Komarnicki, W. Kulczyński, M. Świerz - 22.8.1911).
Motykova cesta - in the south-eastern face, 6 h, difficulty V
4. From Zlomisková and Rumanova dolina - in the southern face of Zlobivá, falling to Rumanova dolinka Valley.
Red TapeThe whole area is a protected landscape and a part of High Tatras National Park, so it is forbidden for non-climbers. Even climbers cannot use routes with difficulty less than III grade of UIAA, except from access paths.
Tatra National Park Regulations
Getting thereThe best starting point for Zlobivá is Horský hotel Popradské pleso (1500 m)- easily reachable from Štrbské pleso (1355 m) by red marked trail (80 min) - and Zlomisková and Rumanová dolina Valleys.
Mountain Rescue TeamHZS Vysoké Tatry
Starý Smokovec 23
059 60 Vysoké Tatry
tel.: +421 52/4422820, fax: +421 52/4422855,