I have many questions about this route. While I think that comparisons with other routes is a really good idea, if one were to come from another continent, with little vacation time, one wouldn't have the time to do all these routes for comparison's sake. What is the difficulty of the hardest parts of the route (rock, snow/ice steepness)? What is the rock quality? What kind of protection would be warranted? What would be the best time of the year to do this? Nice route overlay you provided. Thanks, Dirk
Change of ice and glaciers have been huge during the last years, so I asked a friend who did it in July 2007.
First part from Hörnli-hut to the ridge was no problem. Then
icy rock climbing with crampons. No belaying. After the Zmuttzähne good conditions. Then climbing to the Carrel gallery without crampons. The gallery was icy, not much belaying possible. Rock not firm. The final ridge to the top was not much of a problem. Difficulties: 3BH and 6-7NH.
This year we have much more snow than in other years. Right now it is snowing down to 2800m. Not very inviting!