1) Hirondelles ridge...

1) Hirondelles ridge (Chenoz/Gaia/Matteoda/Rey/Rivelli/Ravetti, 1927, D+/TD-, VI, 750m) The line indicated is the one used more commonly - there are different variants, the most useful being 1a

2) “Le Linceul” - (The Shroud) (Flematti/Desmaison, 1968, TD+, IV/4, 750m to the Hirondelles ridge, 1100 to the Walker).The upper part of the classic Linceul route

3) “Magic Line” (Profit/Radigue, 1983,ED 3/4, VI/6, 1100m.) (Approximate line) In my knowledge, no published topo of this route exist, so this is based on Profit's description. The line follows a series of of chimneys - grooves at the bottom of the corner between the NE face of the Walker spur and the Linceul, on rather rotten rock.

4) “Gousseault” (Bertone/Claret/Desmaison, 1973, ED3, VI, A2 or M5, 1200m.).A very logical route, follows an obvious system of ramps. However, it's not completely clear if the rightward slant towards the Walker spur crest was planned on Demaison's part, or was a result of the dramatic circumstances of the 1971 attempt. From the little snow crest well visible on the picture at the point wher the line turns right and up, there's another ramp leading directly to the Hirondelles Ridge. Demaison remembers that he considered it as an escape route when it became clear that Gousseault's conditions were rapidly worsening.

5) “Rolling Stones” (KutilProchaska/Slechta/Svejda, 1979, 1,100m, ED3, 6b/A3, 80°) Originally, the first climbers wanted to continue the upward ramp until the link with the Gousseault, but an accident to one of the party's member forced them to escape towards the Triangular Snowfield on the classic Cassin route (whose line is not shown here)

6) Gabarrou "Direttissima" (Bouvard/Gabarrou, 1986, ED3/4, 6c-7a, A1/A2, 1200m.) The picture doesn't show clearly that the route joins the Cassin line near the Triangular Snowfield, then goes straight through the Red Chimney with some hard A2 pitches, joining the Cassin again above the Red Tower.

7)“No Siesta” (Glejdura/Porvaznik, 1986, ED3, 90°, 6b and A2,M6 if free,1000m)

8)“Manitua” (Sveticic, 1991, ED2, 70º, 6c, A2/A3,1000m.) Some repeaters has linked this with the Croz Spur Direct or the classic (1935) Spur route.

9) The original left side start of the classic Croz Spur line

(pic courtesy of www.radiovalledaosta.it)


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zazens - Aug 11, 2006 9:12 am - Hasn't voted

Gabarrou "Direttissima"

On this picture the red line should be separate. As you write on another pictures the diretissima is with cassin under the red chemineys 45m then again alone, and for a hard section in A2, then join cassin. I think that without this end part the route would be a little bit easier.

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