14 May 2005. Looking back down the short snow climb around the first large gendarme on Kelso Ridge. The gendarme (out of view to photographer's right, climber's left) can be climbed directly via a fourth-class gully or fifth-class rock. Camera angle belies the steepness of this snow slope - at a couple points it was steep enough that the axe in low-dagger position was more comfortable than having it in self-belay. Shortly above where this picture was taken the snow thins out and the climber finds himself on steep snow-covered scree and talus and it is more comfortable to escape the snow onto solid rock.