And why this climb should be avoided by novices until dry conditions pevail.
Yeah, I couldn't agree more...the descent was the worst part. It took me 45 minutes to descend from the summit to the keyhole! Between the soft snow and verglas I couldn't get my points stuck in anything so I had to make scary traverses between scrambling up the rock sides. At least the weather was nice...
You should do a trip report of your adventure in the San Juans. Looks like it was fun.
No problem - working on it right now. As far as fun, only in the sense that it was fun looking back on it. I was pretty much hating life the whole day. It reminds me of a quote I read once:
"Happiness is not experienced, happiness is remembered"
I think that pretty much sums up mountaineering!
That looks sketchy!!!!!