Page Type
Route Type:
Mountaineering, Sport Climbing
Time Required:
Half a day
Rock Difficulty:
5.10 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 0 Votes

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Created On: Feb 20, 2011
Last Edited On: Feb 20, 2011


Front Tower of Nikita RockFront Tower of Nikita Rock

The multipitch route with stationary (bolted) intermediate belay stations. The rappel slings are available at all the stations. It’s a pleasant various styled climbing along numerous cracks and dihedrals with a difficulties uniformly distributed all over the route. In the upper part of the route there is a crux – a cornice with a big crack just in the middle of it. It’s a great “fun” to negotiate it. After the cornice you’ll get into an overhanging dihedral with a very difficult climbing through cracks. The crack on the first pitch may be wet and dirty. The route is skived from the flakes covering the rocks however one can still meet a few flakes. The climbing team needs 50 meter rope.
One should have a set of stoppers and friends to ensure more frequent belay points and for aid climbing of the crux.

Length 100 meters
Maximal climbing difficulty – 8a
Pitches – 5 ( not exceeding 25 metres)
Quickdraws required –not more 12 pcs.
One needs a set of chokes and nuts. It’s advisable to keep small – size stoppers.

Route Description

К2, 100 m, 6a-6b (8a)

R1 –The beginning of the route is found in the right hand side of the wall. Climb up inclined smooth rounded crack, then up the wall towards the station located a little bit lower of a big ledge. 15m, 5с

R2 – Over inclined slab climb up to a big dihedral. The station is 3 meters away from the beginning of the dihedral. 20m, 5b

R3 – From the station, keeping to the right hand side of the dihedral, climb up to a small cornice. Over the cornice climb to a big smooth inclined ledge 15 m, 6b. Along the ledge climb to a horizontal crack, then to the left under a big cornice. 10m, 4b

R4 – The crux. Up the crack climb under the cornice. Holding it with the hands move to the left side of the cornice and climb up to a dihedral. In case of aid-climbing the difficulty grade lowers to 7а. Then over hanging angle climb up the station. Very compelling climbing with jamming hands and the fists in the cracks with pretty abrasive rocks. 25 m, 8a (7a, A2)

R5 – From the station climb up the dihedral over a little overhanging and then along a crack till an inclined ledge under a huge boulder on the top of the bastion. The station is on the left from the boulder. 25m, 6b

Variants of descent

1. From the top around Nikita Rock on the left down a scree slope or on the right down a couloir. One comes back to the start point.
2. Rappel from any station. All the stations are equipped by rappel eyelids and chains. Take care while rappelling from the station # 4 – pendulum is too long and wide.