27 May 2005. A side-angle...

27 May 2005. A side-angle shot reveals that the Angel isn't as steep as the vertically-taken pictures can lead you to think. SPers Aaron Reid and climb14er are pictured.

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Kane

Kane - May 30, 2005 10:50 am - Voted 10/10

Hi Doug

Without researching that route, how much vertical can you knock out on that mod snow hike/climb? Do youeven need crampons? I hiked Shav a while back and regret not doing it via the Angel.

Doug Shaw - May 31, 2005 12:35 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Hi Doug

One doesn't need crampons and in fact one of the people in the picture (climb14er) isn't wearing them. He also commented that doing it without crampons really sapped a lot of energy..



When the Angel is "full" you can essentially get about as high as the Shavano-Esprit saddle - between 13200 and 13400 or thereabouts. Currently the north arm is melted out so one must stay on the south arm to get that high, and that unfortunately takes you away from the summit.



I believe we estimated that our glissade down the Angel (starting at the top of the southern arm) was about 1200 feet.



There was a narrower, steeper snow climb just south of the Angel that looked like it would have ended up somewhere nearer the summit of Esprit Pt.

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