8000m Peaks Comments

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Fritz Wintersteller

Fritz Wintersteller - Feb 19, 2006 4:15 pm - Hasn't voted

BP Facts

Dear Corax,

BP is 8047m of if you use later reference 8051m but certainly not 8068m.

The First Ascent was 9 June 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl after Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak 8030m on 29 May 1957.


Corax - Mar 1, 2006 7:29 am - Hasn't voted

The altitude

You're absolutely right about that. My mistake. I probably wrote a bit too fast and typed Gasherbrum I's altitude twice. Thanks for letting me know.


BigLee - Aug 15, 2007 1:09 pm - Voted 10/10

Nice page

Couple of things I noticed though.

12 of the peaks lie on borders, not 9 (all but Nanga Parbat and Shishapangma).

You mentioned that Hermann Buhl climbed Nanga Parbat solo. He only climbed solo from around 6900m. Below this height the mountain was seiged.

Also, you've missed off Alan Hinkes who climbed his 14th 8000er in 2005 (albeit in possibly the worst style and greatest cost).



Corax - Aug 16, 2007 4:42 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Nice page

12 of the peaks lie on borders, not 9 (all but Nanga Parbat and Shishapangma).

That's a grave mistake and I have no explanation where the 9 came from. Thanks for pointing that one out.

You mentioned that Hermann Buhl climbed Nanga Parbat solo. He only climbed solo from around 6900m.

Yes, I'm aware of that, but he was the first to summit a 8000m peak solo.

Also, you've missed off Alan Hinkes who climbed his 14th 8000er in 2005 (albeit in possibly the worst style and greatest cost).

Personally, I think he has climbed them all, but is his Cho Oyu climb recognized? Isn't Liz H. and some others claiming he doesn't have any proof? I feel I will create confusion if adding Alan to the list.


BigLee - Aug 16, 2007 12:26 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Nice page

True. Personally I think he climbed Cho Oyu as well. No one can prove he didn't so I think you have to take his word for it, as you usually do with most ascents. Hs seems a sincere guy.
I think if Hinkes had any personal doubts about the ascent he would have gone back to make sure as he is obviously capable of climbing it. Some people also thought he hadn't climbed Kangchenjunga when he summited solo in similarly bad weather however that was baseless.


Scott - Sep 10, 2007 4:43 pm - Hasn't voted

Good list

Good list. I’m not planning on climbing all these monsters, but am curious as to where the difficulty sections for each peak came from. Most of them are consistent with what I have also read, with only a few exceptions I am curious about. Not debating, only curious.

Most literature I have read puts Kanchenjunga as one of the harder peaks.

I’ve never seen Dhaulagiri listed as one of the easier of the peaks or on the lower half of the list. Messner claims it is easier than Annapurna, but still one of the more technical peaks? Supposedly from other sources it is also one of the more technical peak, but also objectively safer than many of the ones? Curious about this one.

About Gasherbrum I, it is worth mentioning that the now standard route is not the easiest route up the peak, but is the easiest of the routes currently open to climbers.

The previous route was rather low angled, but politics and the Kashmir conflict intervened and a more difficult standard route had to be found.

Strangely, the book Annapurna, a Woman’s Place makes a statement that Makalu was somewhat straight foreword, but I assume that that perception has now faded away. All newer sources seem to regard it as one of the more difficult, so I wonder where the perception (prevalent in the 70's) came from?


Corax - Nov 3, 2007 1:56 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Good list

Hmmm. Looking at what I have written I realize I have been a bit bad on counting to 14 it seems. Agreed on Kanchenjunga.
Dhaulaghiri's place on the list I have to defend though. I have some friends who have been there, two, going at different times and none of them are very technical climbers. Both said the route was straight forward. Objectively safe? I have to disagree on that as well. Parts of the route is holds a serious avalanche danger. My friend almost got wiped away by one and look at what happened this year in May.
I may be wrong about the above, but it's the impression I've gotten from the ones I have spoken to, but on the other hand, the literature I have about the peak is many times contradictive. When I was there, it for sure looked like a possible avalanche trap in one place.
Should update about GI. Thanks.
What you mention about Makalu is interesting, but I can't add any knowledge about it at all. It's one of the peaks I haven't seen up close and from what I've heard everyone seems to agree it's a hard one.
Thanks for the input.
I'll see if I can update from here. Have some problems for some reason. Still in Lhasa.


hundy - Sep 25, 2007 5:58 pm - Voted 10/10

Very Nice Page

Thank you, this was very well put together and a-lot of good information. I really enjoyed reading all the information. Thank you for putting all this information on one page.


Corax - Nov 3, 2007 1:56 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Very Nice Page

Thanks for the nice comment.


dmiki - Mar 24, 2008 6:01 am - Voted 10/10

First winter ascents

Hi Janne,

I'm not sure if you would want to include this info on the page:

Everest - 17 February 1980, Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki (PL)
Manaslu - 14 January 1984, Maciej Berbeka and Ryszard Gajewski (PL)
Dhaulagiri - 21 January 1985, Jerzy Kukuczka and Andrzej Czok (PL)
Cho Oyu - 12 February 1985, Maciej Berbeka and Maciej Pawlikowski (repeated three days later by Andrzej Heinrich and Jerzy Kukuczka) (PL)
Kangchenjunga - 11 January 1986, Jerry Kukuczka and Krzysztof Wielicki (PL)
Annapurna I - 3 February 1987, Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer (PL)
Lhotse - 31 December 1988, Krzysztof Wielicki (PL)
Shisha Pangma - 14 January 2005, Simone Moro (IT) and Peter Morawsky (PL)
K2 - none
Makalu - none
Nanga Parbat - none
Gasherbrum I - none
Broad Peak - none
Gasherbrum II - none

Some further info


Corax - Apr 20, 2008 7:20 am - Hasn't voted

Re: First winter ascents

I will definitely include that info as it's very relevant and interesting.


dmiki - Apr 12, 2009 4:19 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: First winter ascents

Dhaulagiri claims Piotr Morawski :((


dmiki - Apr 20, 2009 7:59 am - Voted 10/10

Re: First winter ascents

"On or about January 27, 2006, the French mountaineer Jean-Christophe Lafaille disappeared on Makalu while trying to make the first winter ascent.

Makalu was first climbed in winter on February 9th 2009 by Italian Simone Moro and Kazakh Denis Urubko. It was the final Nepali 8000er to be climbed in winter conditions."


dmiki - Feb 4, 2011 4:39 am - Voted 10/10

Re: First winter ascents

GII 02 Feb 2011 Simone Moro (Italy), Denis Urubko (Kazakhstan), Cory Richards (Canada)

Wolfgang Schaub

Wolfgang Schaub - Aug 27, 2009 2:24 am - Hasn't voted

The highest point on planet earth.

"Everest: The highest point on planet earth" you say, and viewed with "conventional eyes" this is true.

For all those, however, who feel they cannot master Everest in their lives, there is consolation, if they just abandon the arbitrary idea of measuring height as "above sea level". A more rigorous way of looking at it calls for measuring from the center of the Earth. Then Chimborazo in Ecuador is the highest on this planet.


Corax - Aug 30, 2009 2:56 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: The highest point on planet earth.

I guess I have to look at things with conventional eyes when making a page or it would be very complicated.
Mauna Kea - the highest from foot to top about 10 200 meters also beats Everest, but in another way.
Chimborazo is probably the highest counting from the center of the earth. The contender is Huascaran Sur. DGPS readings from both summits is the only way be sure, even if most data points at Chimborazo.


Bruno - May 16, 2010 2:40 pm - Voted 10/10

List of all 14 8000ers summiters

Some minor corrections:

1) Juanito Oiarzabal* (1999). By 1999, Oirzabal climbed all 8000ers, but at that time Everest was climbed with bottled O2. He then repeated Everest, this time without O2, in 2001. Anyway, even by counting 2001 as finishing date instead of 1999, he remains the third man after Messner and Loretan to have climbed all 14 without artificial O2.

2) Andrew Lock used bottled O2 for his Everest climb, so the star (*) should be removed unless he repeats Everest without O2.

3) Piotr Ptstelnik, Poland, completed all 14 on 27 April 2010 (with artificial O2)

4) Eun-Sun Oh, South Korea, completed as first woman all 14 8000ers, also on 27 April 2010. Or didn't she??? Kangchenjunga is heavily disputed, apparently with some good reasons to doubt... :)


Corax - Jun 26, 2010 1:33 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: List of all 14 8000ers summiters

Hi Bruno!
Late answer. Have been very busy in the mountains.
Thanks for the input. I will make the changes today. And since you wrote the message there's one more to add. The page will be a really large one in a couple of years :)

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