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TimB - Mar 15, 2013 11:02 am - Voted 10/10

Very good

read, Liba.
Lots of stuff there that I did't know about Abalakov and his anchor invention.
Most of the ice around here is gone already, but I may just grab a 50 lb slab from the local 'Tour Ice' and learn how to make those things.

Liba Kopeckova

Liba Kopeckova - Mar 15, 2013 3:47 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Very good

Thanks Tim, I usually find Abalakov's in place already, or we have lots of anchors on frequently climbed routes. I still love to practice and think it is a great skill to have.

Liba Kopeckova

Liba Kopeckova - Mar 18, 2013 9:06 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Good Stuff...

I could not find the year when Abalakov created his thread - but I doubt it was in 1978 (he would have been 70 years old). He invented camming devices in 1930s, and I believe the invention of his thread was in 1930-40s..., definitively not when he was 70 years old.
I think that Jeff Lowe did not copy him, but created v-thread totally on his own, based on people rapping from ice bollards, he just went deeper.
My good friend Michael Covingtion, who was a pretty famous alpinist (climbed a lot with Doug Scott and even Messner) does not use v-threads - he climbed in 70s.
Still would like to know the exact year of invention....I will try to e-mail a couple of my Russian friends to see...
Thanks for your comment. We owe Jeff Lowe for a lot of inventions in climbing...

Liba Kopeckova

Liba Kopeckova - Mar 19, 2013 4:39 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Good Stuff...

Alex believes the invention happened before their ascent of Peak Lenin - so around 1934!


badhorse - Mar 20, 2013 4:40 pm - Hasn't voted


Skvely clanek, diky za nej

Liba Kopeckova

Liba Kopeckova - Mar 20, 2013 8:10 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Super

A kdepak jsi se naucil cesky?
Diky za poznamku....

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