Jonas Cruces defies blizzard suffered during the attempted ascent of Aconcagua in December 2010.
False Polish to Colera. A lot of death the day prior to our summit. Poor decisions + Altitude = "Not Good" The previous days disasters unfortunatley dampened my joy of the summit. Not likely a mountain I would repeat however. Well, maybe just for the excuse to visit Mendoza!
Had intended on going via Polish Traverse, but conditions suggested traversing from Polish camp 1 to ´Guanacos 3´, then up to Colera at 5970m, more likely to be successful. So I modified my plans and went that route. I was holed up for 3 days at Polish camp 1 in terrible storm which sadly claimed the lives of 3 climbers higher up the mountain. However, things then improved and I was fortunate to summit on an unusually calm day on 17th Feb.
After 12 days during which I visited Confluencia, Plaza Francia, Plaza de Mulas, Cerro Bonete, I climbed Cerro Aconcagua overnighting 2 times at Nido de Condores and 2 times at plaza Colera. Wonderful day after a windy night (70 - 80 km/h) with -20°C and wind at 40 km/h along the big traverse. Magnific view of the south wall and of all the mountains around; it was possible to see also the Earth curvature from the top!
Gorgeous day with no winds and warm temps. Unbelievable experience with our group, 10 folks on top and lots more sharing the mountain with us that day. Hope to get back next year!
4 summits in two years. I'll be back next year if anybody needs a partner for a technical route. Can't stop drooling at Riechert and Gussfeldt.
We spent 10 days on the mountain. Our unguided party of three bypassed all camps except Mulas and Nido. Very cold and windy.
my first "expedition" mountain. What an amazing adventure!
Hiked up the normal route from Nido and back with Janne. Felt the altitude. My highest summit! and I hope to get even higher one day.
solo, unsupported Aconcagua "traverse". ascent by Vacas valley and Piaza Argetnina, decent by Plaza de Mulas and Horocones Valley. Summit Attack from Camp Colera/Piedras Blancas (it is the same place, sometimes is mistaken). 13 days, good weather
Amazing trip on an interesting mountain. Climbed in a group of three and were unsupported.
View from the top
Polish Route. Spent 3 nights at 20,400'? on the side of the Polish glacier. 1st day= 5 summit. 2nd day= 5 turn back-snowing hard. 3rd day= myself and 2 guides break 2' fresh powder. Half way to summit on steep slope we hear the "Womph" and I feel the snow settle. Lucky=no avalanche=we should NOT have been there. Now I know to dig a pit to test the snow. 31 days on the mountain and only saw 2 other people besides our group of 13! Phil Powers goes on to summit K2 w/o O2 and Steve Goyal summits Everest with Scott Fischer and I finish the 50 state HP's!
I climbed Aconcagua with a commercial Tour, but was lucky to do it with patrick Berhault, so it was an incredible beautiful time I had during this trip. We did it via the "falso polaco" route encountering some pb at high camp where we had to wait 3 days long, but finally made it. Not a difficult climb for sure compared to many others, even other Argentinian 6000m peaks. Alas the mountain become more and more overcrowded, but it remains the highest of the andes. Still, it's a dangerous mountain because.... normally, it's an easy one!be careful!
Reached the summit via the normal route with 5 of our group of 7. The first half of the climb was in ok conditions, but during the traverse and in the Canaleta the weahter worsened. We reached a very windy but cloud-covered summit around 16.00h.
10 hours up, 4 down. Great trip!
Altitude Sickness prevented summit. Bummer trip.
My partner and I hooked up with someone at the last minute. Was the hardest day of my life. 12 hours to the summit topping out at 4pm, but perfect conditions. Never felt altitude like that before, was in a dream like state on the summit. Took the False Polish back to Camp 2.
3 of nine members of our group made the summit. I thank the weather gods for the exceptional weather.
Unfortunately I didn't summit due to altitude sickness but I'll be back for sure!
The most serious mountain I have walked to. 8 days to summit including 5 days to ascent one single peak. Photos and a report from our trip (external link).
An epic experience. I planned to do the Polish direct, but when I got up to camp two the weather turned really bad (strong winds and snowfall). I made a few attempts to go up, but hence I was the only one to stay in the camp I found it impossible to climb the glacier by myself. All in all, I spent 5 days in C2 (5800m) on Polish Route and then used a good day for a transfer to Colera - C2 on the Normal Route (6000m), since there was too much risk of an avalanche on the glacier. Unluckilly I lost my sunglasses during the traverse and had to spend two more days in a tent curing snow blindness. Another team was trying twice to go up to the summit at the time but had to draw back due to strong winds and lots of snow on the route. So it turned out that I would have lost those two days anyway. They decided to retreat and left me their spare sunglasses and some eyedrops which would help me go down the next day. So I remained the last person high on the mountain.
But the next day my eyes were much better and the weather was ok despite the strong winds. I left late (09:00 am) but managed to get to the summit. There was relatively a lot of snow on the way and I had to make a new track by myself so it was quite hard. While descending I met two other climbers who had started straight from Nido and seemed really exhausted. Anyway, they made it to the summit too - big respect.
I hadn't had much respect for this mountain before this climb, but 19 days on the mountain made me change this opinion. It may happen that the weather will be great, but if it's not, the mountain becomes quite serious, even on classical routes. It was a good lesson for me.