Second of the seven, classic climb
Weather wasn't great and gave us a brief window after turning around twice. Went Mulas to Nido de Condores in a day then left the next night to get to the summit and back with a bit of help from the rangers. Returned all the way to Penitentes the next day from Nido.
Got just wanted I wanted for Christmas!
February 16, 1997 failed solo attempt up False Polish Glacier Route on Aconcagua. My slow acclimatization kept me lower (managed to save a solo climber’s life who was probably dying of pulmonary edema, you’re welcome) than my two team mates (Philippe G./ Thomas B.) Phil and Tom summitted via the False Polish route on Feb. 14. I left our camp below the Polish Glacier for a solo attempt on Feb. 16.
Cruised to the Independencia hut, but then the weather began to deteriorate. My traverse of the Gran Acarreo was in near whiteout conditions, with high winds and this is where I began to suffer from high altitude sickness. I managed to scramble up to the top of La Canaleta, when my condition, and the weather, became very serious.
Sitting alone in a complete whiteout with the temperature likely below -30 degrees Celsius with probably 80 km/hour winds and feeling like my worst hangover ever (no energy, strong desire to vomit, severe headache) a group descending from the summit approached. Their leader, a friendly English speaking policeman from Medoza (who had just completed his fourth Aconcagua summit) told me that the weather was only going to get worse and likely the Viento Blanco could occur. I assured the gentleman I was fine as they moved on. I just sat there the next half hour, sort of aware of my position, completely alone, questioning what I should do. Eventually I descended.
I am guessing I reached 6900 metres (?). For about ten years it really bothered me that I didn’t push on, and thought about returning to Aconcagua. Now, with a family and a busy career, I am happy to pursue local summits. But maybe when I retire ;-)
Unsupported. 8 days ascent, 2 days descent.
I tried the normal route in Jan 2011 but ran out of time.
This year I planned to stay 20 days on the mountain and summitted on the last possible day fully utilizing all 20 days.
My first time above 12,000 ft. I spent 5 days at Plaza de Mulas with pretty bad AMS before heading down. My partner went on to summit despite most parties being blown off of the higher camps. I want to go back sometime.
A great trip to the top of the Americas together with my friend Johan Dahlström (SWE). We did the Polish traverse with a small diversion. Instead of Polish Camp 2 we went via Guanacos 3 to Camp Colera (aka White Rocks). During day 1-10 we had wonderful weather, on day 11 a moderate snowstorm hit the mountain and covered the upper slopes with some fresh snow. On Monday 13/2 (day 12) wee left Camp Colera at 04:30 and stood on the summit at 12:15. The weather was nice, moderate winds and not too cold.
Canaleta had a layer of snow which made the climb more enjoyable.
On the two following days the winds increased heavely which made it harder to reach the summit. We were very lucky with the weather-window.
Mid February was a good choice. Less people on the mountain. Wouldn't like to be there during peak season. We spent totally 16 days in the park.
We went private but bought mule-service from Lanko. (www.lanko.com.ar). It worked out pretty well.
Reached the summit it with Chuck P. The summit was way over due. Chuck!
Summited from Colera camp @ 6000 meters. Me and a polish climber had the summit to ourselves for 25 minutes, perfect conditions with no wind at all up top!
I was very fortunate to reach the summit with Troy B. for Cops on Top in honor of Officer Jonathan Schmidt. The summit was amazing and the weather was perfect. Overall an incredible trip.
Amazing and fun trip, a snow storm at Camp 1 made everything beautiful and the subsequent winds made everything exciting. Summited on day 14, a rare warm and nearly windless day. Via Polish Traverse/Guannaco Traverse.
Submited at 11:02 as first on this day from Campo Colera. Nice weather, clear sky.. Hard and succesful day for whole group of 3 (with Lukas and Mira)
Highpoint: Camp Cholera (5943m)
We had to go back because of three damaged tents and bad weather.
Hard to breathe going up past 21,000ft, but made it!
I climbed the mountain in 11 days from Mendoza with
- 1 night spent in Puente de Inca
- 2 nights in Confluencia
- 3 nights in Plaza de Mulas
- 1 night in Plaza Alaska
- 2 nights in Nido de Condores
- 1 night in Berlin
It is perhaps possible to be faster being well acclimatised.
Conditions were perfect.
Do not bring any heavy ice-axe (it's useless on the normal route), ice-screws or similar stuff. Bring a pair of double layer boots. THIS IS ESSENTIAL !
My initial motivation for climbing Aconcagua was to take a break from from "winter" by traveling to the Southern Hemisphere. What I experienced there makes me wonder why I ever came home. The night sky was totally unfamiliar, the night life an ongoing party (which explains the need for Siesta), and the food and drink an unbelievable feast at insignificant expense. My passion for Mendoza brewed wine has become a life long addiction (none of the negative connotation apply). The climbing experience was typical for this non technical climb to commonly underestimated elevation. I should have worn better (perhaps double) boots to prevent the effects of really cold feet.
We did a carry over with all of our gear. Very tough but rewarding.
This was my 2nd of the 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer's - going for all in one year. This was the 3rd time I have summitted Aconcagau
Interesting climb to say the least, though lots of fun. Not overly sure I would do it again, but some of the sister peaks looked great!