Up on Guanacos (had the whole mountain to ourselves except for one AAI group), down on normal route
Had some major winds at our Camp 2 (Nido) that collapsed and broke our tent; forced us down to wait it out at basecamp. Went for it all after a day wait, summit from Nido. Very windy throughout the trip, luckily caught a break for the big day 13 days in. Out on day 15, great trip!
Another Aconcagua summit, #3 for me and another very successful trip with 100% of our group (10 folks total) on top. Crystal clear skies, light wind and stunning views all around.
Second summit for me on a beautiful day, 100% success for our group of 12. Only group on top when we arrived!
had to wait at nido condores for a better wind forecast... in the end we were lucky and had a great summit day with mild wind and good visibility...
Forced back down off of the mountain by extreemly high winds. Base camp ravaged by winds. Worst wind conditions I have faced in the 25 years I have been coming to Argentina. Better luck next time I guess. Regards William
Summited around 3:30pm New Year's Day. Cloudy as heck, and a brilliant snowstorm down to High Camp.
Summit from C2 via Polish Traverse. Great weather!!
Attempted the Polish Glacier Route, but traversed to the Normal Route due to bad weather. Very cold with high winds. Summitted from Berlin with Dan Leeth, Melvin Downing, Rob Wells and guide Peter Getzels on 2/17/83. Although successful, summit day the toughest single day I have ever experienced.
Second of the seven, classic climb
Weather wasn't great and gave us a brief window after turning around twice. Went Mulas to Nido de Condores in a day then left the next night to get to the summit and back with a bit of help from the rangers. Returned all the way to Penitentes the next day from Nido.
Got just wanted I wanted for Christmas!
February 16, 1997 failed solo attempt up False Polish Glacier Route on Aconcagua. My slow acclimatization kept me lower (managed to save a solo climber’s life who was probably dying of pulmonary edema, you’re welcome) than my two team mates (Philippe G./ Thomas B.) Phil and Tom summitted via the False Polish route on Feb. 14. I left our camp below the Polish Glacier for a solo attempt on Feb. 16.
Cruised to the Independencia hut, but then the weather began to deteriorate. My traverse of the Gran Acarreo was in near whiteout conditions, with high winds and this is where I began to suffer from high altitude sickness. I managed to scramble up to the top of La Canaleta, when my condition, and the weather, became very serious.
Sitting alone in a complete whiteout with the temperature likely below -30 degrees Celsius with probably 80 km/hour winds and feeling like my worst hangover ever (no energy, strong desire to vomit, severe headache) a group descending from the summit approached. Their leader, a friendly English speaking policeman from Medoza (who had just completed his fourth Aconcagua summit) told me that the weather was only going to get worse and likely the Viento Blanco could occur. I assured the gentleman I was fine as they moved on. I just sat there the next half hour, sort of aware of my position, completely alone, questioning what I should do. Eventually I descended.
I am guessing I reached 6900 metres (?). For about ten years it really bothered me that I didn’t push on, and thought about returning to Aconcagua. Now, with a family and a busy career, I am happy to pursue local summits. But maybe when I retire ;-)
Unsupported. 8 days ascent, 2 days descent.
I tried the normal route in Jan 2011 but ran out of time.
This year I planned to stay 20 days on the mountain and summitted on the last possible day fully utilizing all 20 days.
My first time above 12,000 ft. I spent 5 days at Plaza de Mulas with pretty bad AMS before heading down. My partner went on to summit despite most parties being blown off of the higher camps. I want to go back sometime.
A great trip to the top of the Americas together with my friend Johan Dahlström (SWE). We did the Polish traverse with a small diversion. Instead of Polish Camp 2 we went via Guanacos 3 to Camp Colera (aka White Rocks). During day 1-10 we had wonderful weather, on day 11 a moderate snowstorm hit the mountain and covered the upper slopes with some fresh snow. On Monday 13/2 (day 12) wee left Camp Colera at 04:30 and stood on the summit at 12:15. The weather was nice, moderate winds and not too cold.
Canaleta had a layer of snow which made the climb more enjoyable.
On the two following days the winds increased heavely which made it harder to reach the summit. We were very lucky with the weather-window.
Mid February was a good choice. Less people on the mountain. Wouldn't like to be there during peak season. We spent totally 16 days in the park.
We went private but bought mule-service from Lanko. (www.lanko.com.ar). It worked out pretty well.
Reached the summit it with Chuck P. The summit was way over due. Chuck!
Summited from Colera camp @ 6000 meters. Me and a polish climber had the summit to ourselves for 25 minutes, perfect conditions with no wind at all up top!
I was very fortunate to reach the summit with Troy B. for Cops on Top in honor of Officer Jonathan Schmidt. The summit was amazing and the weather was perfect. Overall an incredible trip.