Aconcagua Climber's Log

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clicknclimb - Jan 27, 2006 12:16 am

Route Climbed: Variation of Polish Glacier Route Date Climbed: 12 January 2006  Sucess!

Zigzaging up the middle of the glacier takes WAY to long. 14.5 hours to the summit, 5 hours down. Perfect weather, not much wind, but a bit chilly. Reached the summit with my partner, Vaughn, and 4 guys from Norway, thanks for the motivation, guys!

rdesota

rdesota - Jan 25, 2006 10:15 am

Route Climbed: False Polish Date Climbed: January 11, 2006  Sucess!

A long walk, nice day but fairly crowded.

johan

johan - Jan 21, 2006 8:35 am Date Climbed: Jan 18, 2006

Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: 18 Januray 2006  Sucess!

Hola todos!



Reached the top after been waiting 7 days in Nido de Condores before good weather.



Had fresh snow on the way up.



Full story: http://www.aconcagua.inc.se



More pictures can be found here: http://cern.ch/aconcagua



Cheers,

Johan



PS. My own pictures are now online: http://www.cern.ch/johan.karlsson/aconcagua

William Marler

William Marler - Jan 15, 2006 7:14 am

Route Climbed: False Polish Date Climbed: January 10th, 2006  Sucess!

Very good day. Tough slogging at the end due to the dry conditions at the top sections. Very strong team. Ted, Peter, Beverly, Guy, and Laurie. All at the top together.

Andinistaloco

Andinistaloco - Jan 14, 2006 3:06 pm

Route Climbed: False Polish Date Climbed: January 2006  Sucess!

Unbelievably high winds up top made this a fairly miserable summit day, but the days getting to the peak and up to Camp 2 were mostly nice and the views coming in were incredible! Met some great folks on the mountain - and lost all their addresses when the mule carrying my gear drowned in the Vacas river....



edl - Jan 12, 2006 11:58 pm

Route Climbed: Guanacos Valley Date Climbed: Dec. 28th, 2005  Sucess!

Summited on day 15. Excellent weather on summit day. I highly recommend this route, much cleaner and more remote than the more common routes. We never saw other people until high camp.

HeyItsBen

HeyItsBen - Dec 27, 2005 6:59 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: December 2005  Sucess!

Started at the ranger station near Penitentes on December 7th and made the summit on December 17th. Had good luck with the weather.

Alpinist

Alpinist - Dec 19, 2005 7:44 am Date Climbed: Dec 15, 2005

Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: December 15, 2005  Sucess!

Peak Freak and I had intended to take the Polish traverse route, but Plaza Argentina was not open yet due to an avalanche along the mule trail. So the Normal Route was the only viable option for us.

It took 10 hours to summit from high camp at Colera (5850 meters), and 3 hours to return to camp.

I met several new friends from SP during the trip. Corax, Nadios and their team from Sweden summited on the same day as I did. (What a great group of people!). Tom and Jim from Denver also made their summit bid on the same day. And of course, my climbing partner Peak Freak. Thanks for the comradery! Thanks also to Ken from Texas for providing us with additional fuel at high camp following his successful summit attempt and descent.

Trip Report

dkmayhew

dkmayhew - Nov 13, 2005 9:20 pm

Route Climbed: Polish Traverse Date Climbed: Feb,2002  Sucess!

Had a great experience. Was very lucky with weather and only had one day of snow when at high camp at 19,000. Summit day was perfect with no wind, it was actually to hot for me. It is sad to see people do stupid things on a mountain.They end up getting hurt, or worse. This also puts the climbers around them who end up helping at risk.

MikeW

MikeW - Oct 25, 2005 4:38 pm

Route Climbed: Polish Glacier Traverse Date Climbed: January 2005  Sucess!

I climbed with Aymara, a great local company. The Polish Traverse route is a beauty, not too crowded compared with the Normal route. Only 2 camps instead of 3 for the Normal, so a little bit more difficult but very enjoyable. Summit day was a 14 hours day, not too cold (-10c) but windy. Great expedition.

bruno baschung

bruno baschung - Aug 18, 2005 8:04 am

Route Climbed: vacas route Date Climbed: 23rd January 1993  Sucess!

Summit reached with a french commercial expedition led by Patrick Behrault and Michel Cormier Jnuary 23rd 1993.



We used the wild (and less frequented) vacas route up and down, one of us making with Patrick the polish glacier.



We encountered 3 days of viento blanco before our final summit push.



Bruno BASCHUNG

Bergrot

Bergrot - Jul 29, 2005 12:05 pm

Route Climbed: False Polish Date Climbed: 26 Dec 2002  Sucess!

Long walk up in high altitudes. At this time there was a lot of snow in the canaletta which made the last meters easier than usual. -5°C and nearly no wind on the top. Great views of south summit and south face.

Roman Romancini

Roman Romancini - Jul 25, 2005 3:49 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: August 8th 2004  Sucess!

One of the First Brazilians to summit during WINTER Season

innuksuk

innuksuk - Jul 19, 2005 3:57 am

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: 24 January 2005  Sucess!

Nice day for the summit. Amazing feeling, but legs were very lactic. Involved in a taxing rescue of a texan climber who came down with cerebral oedema. Park doctors tried to pass him off onto us (not very impressed with this). He was helicoptered out and went into coma we were told. Crap end to an amazing experience. Very little snow around and mid day temps ran the streams piss yellow. Nido very windy, but higher up things were relatively calmer. Heading back in September to hopefully make the first Irish winter ascent of the mountain. I'll post again with the details.

soslaw

soslaw - Apr 18, 2005 4:20 pm

Route Climbed: Polish Glacier Traverse Date Climbed: January 9, 2004

Climbed with Nathan. The 3 day approach through the Vacas valley was hot and dry. Met a french girl just below base camp carrying a humungous pack with a tea kettle strapped to it. Ran into her boy friend lounging on a rock further up the trail with a considerably smaller pack. Base camp wasn't crowded as it was early. Weather remained great and camp 1 at 16K was beach weather during the day. The carry to camp 2 at the base of the Polish glacier saw continued good weather with little or no wind. Everything changed once we moved to camp 2. Two French Canadiens played ice hockey on a frozen pond on the glaicer. After 3 days of snow we descended to BC which was now a zoo with arriving and descending climbers. Spent the next 2 weeks traveling in Argentina. Patagonia and the Lakes region are a must for anyone that enjoys the out doors. Will return.

Joerg Marretsch

Joerg Marretsch - Apr 3, 2005 3:51 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: 19 Januar 2005  Sucess!

Much snow, but wunderful. Tired and satisfied. The best trip i made. Reach the summit with 4 other climbers, a argentinian and a german guide.

erik_ravenstijn

erik_ravenstijn - Mar 12, 2005 4:12 pm Date Climbed: Jan 19, 2004

Route Climbed: Normal (from North-West) Date Climbed: 19 january 2004

THIS WAS AN INCREDIBLE EXPERIENCE!!
Summitted with my friend Marco after being just 15 days in the Andes, on a perfect day. Had lots of snow, which made the scene even more beautifaul. The normal route is indeed a walk up, but the last 300 meters through the canaleta are quite steep: 40 degrees. Don't underestimate it, you have to wotk there!
Many pics of my expedition at: www.climbingtours.net

walt_stock - Mar 6, 2005 8:29 pm

Route Climbed: Polish Direct Date Climbed: December 25, 2004  Sucess!

After a failed attempt on the normal route a few years ago this year the weather holds and we summit 11 days after we left Mendoza. Two nights at 5900m without a tent (we lost our high camp tent during a base-camp rest day - you know, it can be a bit windy on Aconcagua...) add to an alltogether exciting adventure.

ripper333 - Feb 15, 2005 6:42 pm

Route Climbed: polish glacier direct Date Climbed: jan 2005

this was an incredible experience.

we had 11 days of perfect weather and conditions.

it was a 12 hour climb from camp 2 to the ridge and

an hour on the ridge to the summit. quite demanding.

being well acclimitized from a few weeks and bunch

of summits in ecuador was way helpful.

Jason Halladay

Jason Halladay - Feb 15, 2005 12:21 am

Route Climbed: Polish Direct Date Climbed: January 9th, 2005  Sucess!

Aron and I summitted at 5:10pm after 10 hours of climbing the Polish Glacier Direct. Very taxing and physcially demanding route but worth every bit of effort! Luggage delays in Mendoza forced us to acend the mountain in 7 days total with three days for the descent. Trip report for our climb is posted here on SP.

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