My trip started in Peru in july 1997. I did not know that I was going to be two years and a half in South America. With $40 from La Paz I went to Santiago and some people loaned a tent a jacket and food to go to Aconcagua. This has been the climb that I cherish the most because it taught me that everything is possible.
Just finished my 7th guiding season on Aconslogua and racked up summits 15, 16, and 17.
I think another year of this and I'll need a break...
This less-traveled route is spectacular. We began on Feb.3rd, and on Feb. 6th the afternoon weather became ever more suspect with each passing day. The day we reached our high camp it snowed 6" and turned nasty. Our group of five climbers had to abandon summit plans because of continued poor weather, but the exprience was terrific.
Summit on Feb 24, 2006, seizing an excellent weather window opportunity. 4 days in Plaza Argentina, 2 in Camp1 and 1 in Camp2.
Return through Vacas valley was very windy (>50kph)with sandstorms, even lenticular clouds forming over the mountain range.
Thanks a lot to guide Matoco (Grajales), and Dagmar, Gabriel for the delicious meals at Basecamp. Also spent great time with friends from Inka (Jairo, Eduardo, Luli, Mari). Hope to see you guys in coming expeditions elsewhere in the world!
Climbed the False Polish Traverse with my wife but did not reach the summit. Met a lot of great people Walt, William Marler, Laurie Skreslet, Dave from Boston, Jon from Germany, Glen from Norway and Miguel and Pinky from Inka. We got invited to their camp on New Year's Eve. Great times, great people and great memories of the adventure of a lifetime.
Going out of Berlin Camp on 4 a.m, on the summit on about 2 p.m. Good conditions in the night, light moonlight, no wind. During the day more clouds and wind, from the summit very poor view. During the descent strong snow and wind, problems to find the way back. Return to Berlin camp on 7 p.m.
Me and my friend Martin broke the trail all the way ,from Campo 2 in 20 cm fresh snow, to the summit. The night climb was magical but as soon as the sun came up the weather deteriorated gradually. It erupted in a blizzard later in the afternoon.
The expedition was a success due to 3 fantastic climbing partners in Martin Adserballe (Tibet veteran cyclist from DK), Geoffrey Stanford (Everest and Himalaya veteran) and Tom Clowes (Everest, Ama Dablam and Everest soon again :-) ).
Thank you Dagmar for the Pizzas in Plaza Argentina (F.G. Exp.)
Very beautiful sunrises and very noisy base camp.
Reached the summit under light winds and good temps after a blustery cold start. Took about 12hrs return from Calero, slow, yes but spent about an hour or more resting in a snow field on the way down below Indepencia.
I left C2 at 06:30 and walked in knee high snow all the way to the summit. Got there at 12:05. It was a beautiful day with almost no wind. Walked down to Plaza Argentina in the evening and enjoyed a pizza. A great day!
100% of the trail was snow covered - sunny day, no wind. left Berlin at 7:10 and reached the summit at 14:40. Great views and great experience.
Zigzaging up the middle of the glacier takes WAY to long. 14.5 hours to the summit, 5 hours down. Perfect weather, not much wind, but a bit chilly. Reached the summit with my partner, Vaughn, and 4 guys from Norway, thanks for the motivation, guys!
A long walk, nice day but fairly crowded.
Reached the top after been waiting 7 days in Nido de Condores before good weather.
Had fresh snow on the way up.
Full story: http://www.aconcagua.inc.se
More pictures can be found here: http://cern.ch/aconcagua
PS. My own pictures are now online: http://www.cern.ch/johan.karlsson/aconcagua
Very good day. Tough slogging at the end due to the dry conditions at the top sections. Very strong team. Ted, Peter, Beverly, Guy, and Laurie. All at the top together.
Unbelievably high winds up top made this a fairly miserable summit day, but the days getting to the peak and up to Camp 2 were mostly nice and the views coming in were incredible! Met some great folks on the mountain - and lost all their addresses when the mule carrying my gear drowned in the Vacas river....
Summited on day 15. Excellent weather on summit day. I highly recommend this route, much cleaner and more remote than the more common routes. We never saw other people until high camp.
Started at the ranger station near Penitentes on December 7th and made the summit on December 17th. Had good luck with the weather.
Peak Freak and I had intended to take the Polish traverse route, but Plaza Argentina was not open yet due to an avalanche along the mule trail. So the Normal Route was the only viable option for us.
It took 10 hours to summit from high camp at Colera (5850 meters), and 3 hours to return to camp.
I met several new friends from SP during the trip. Corax, Nadios and their team from Sweden summited on the same day as I did. (What a great group of people!). Tom and Jim from Denver also made their summit bid on the same day. And of course, my climbing partner Peak Freak. Thanks for the comradery! Thanks also to Ken from Texas for providing us with additional fuel at high camp following his successful summit attempt and descent.
Had a great experience. Was very lucky with weather and only had one day of snow when at high camp at 19,000. Summit day was perfect with no wind, it was actually to hot for me. It is sad to see people do stupid things on a mountain.They end up getting hurt, or worse. This also puts the climbers around them who end up helping at risk.