Aconcagua Climber's Log

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ElCapitanKoolAid

ElCapitanKoolAid - May 7, 2006 5:51 pm Date Climbed: Jan 1, 1998

A long way from home  Sucess!

My trip started in Peru in july 1997. I did not know that I was going to be two years and a half in South America. With $40 from La Paz I went to Santiago and some people loaned a tent a jacket and food to go to Aconcagua. This has been the climb that I cherish the most because it taught me that everything is possible.

tetontom

tetontom - Apr 19, 2006 2:38 am

Summit #17  Sucess!

Just finished my 7th guiding season on Aconslogua and racked up summits 15, 16, and 17.
I think another year of this and I'll need a break...

Moogie737

Moogie737 - Apr 18, 2006 3:30 am Date Climbed: Feb 15, 2006

Guanacos Valley/travers

This less-traveled route is spectacular. We began on Feb.3rd, and on Feb. 6th the afternoon weather became ever more suspect with each passing day. The day we reached our high camp it snowed 6" and turned nasty. Our group of five climbers had to abandon summit plans because of continued poor weather, but the exprience was terrific.

tkikuchibr

tkikuchibr - Mar 24, 2006 2:11 am Date Climbed: Feb 24, 2006

Polish Glacier Traverse  Sucess!

Summit on Feb 24, 2006, seizing an excellent weather window opportunity. 4 days in Plaza Argentina, 2 in Camp1 and 1 in Camp2.
Return through Vacas valley was very windy (>50kph)with sandstorms, even lenticular clouds forming over the mountain range.
Thanks a lot to guide Matoco (Grajales), and Dagmar, Gabriel for the delicious meals at Basecamp. Also spent great time with friends from Inka (Jairo, Eduardo, Luli, Mari). Hope to see you guys in coming expeditions elsewhere in the world!

Brad Marshall

Brad Marshall - Mar 15, 2006 12:21 am Date Climbed: Dec 28, 2005

Route Climbed: False Polish Traverse

Climbed the False Polish Traverse with my wife but did not reach the summit. Met a lot of great people Walt, William Marler, Laurie Skreslet, Dave from Boston, Jon from Germany, Glen from Norway and Miguel and Pinky from Inka. We got invited to their camp on New Year's Eve. Great times, great people and great memories of the adventure of a lifetime.

Tomasz Jazwinski

Tomasz Jazwinski - Mar 10, 2006 2:52 pm Date Climbed: Feb 14, 2006

Ruta normal  Sucess!

Going out of Berlin Camp on 4 a.m, on the summit on about 2 p.m. Good conditions in the night, light moonlight, no wind. During the day more clouds and wind, from the summit very poor view. During the descent strong snow and wind, problems to find the way back. Return to Berlin camp on 7 p.m.

incrediblesnowman

incrediblesnowman - Feb 21, 2006 1:44 pm Date Climbed: Feb 15, 2006

Falso Polacos  Sucess!

Me and my friend Martin broke the trail all the way ,from Campo 2 in 20 cm fresh snow, to the summit. The night climb was magical but as soon as the sun came up the weather deteriorated gradually. It erupted in a blizzard later in the afternoon.

The expedition was a success due to 3 fantastic climbing partners in Martin Adserballe (Tibet veteran cyclist from DK), Geoffrey Stanford (Everest and Himalaya veteran) and Tom Clowes (Everest, Ama Dablam and Everest soon again :-) ).

Thank you Dagmar for the Pizzas in Plaza Argentina (F.G. Exp.)

MarieP

MarieP - Feb 8, 2006 9:56 am

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: January, 2006  Sucess!

Very beautiful sunrises and very noisy base camp.

Alpine72

Alpine72 - Feb 5, 2006 4:35 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: Feb 1 2006  Sucess!

Reached the summit under light winds and good temps after a blustery cold start. Took about 12hrs return from Calero, slow, yes but spent about an hour or more resting in a snow field on the way down below Indepencia.

Gremo

Gremo - Feb 1, 2006 2:44 pm

Route Climbed: Falso de los Polacos Date Climbed: January 23 2006  Sucess!

I left C2 at 06:30 and walked in knee high snow all the way to the summit. Got there at 12:05. It was a beautiful day with almost no wind. Walked down to Plaza Argentina in the evening and enjoyed a pizza. A great day!

Ario

Ario - Jan 29, 2006 2:56 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: 26 january 2006  Sucess!

100% of the trail was snow covered - sunny day, no wind. left Berlin at 7:10 and reached the summit at 14:40. Great views and great experience.

clicknclimb - Jan 27, 2006 12:16 am

Route Climbed: Variation of Polish Glacier Route Date Climbed: 12 January 2006  Sucess!

Zigzaging up the middle of the glacier takes WAY to long. 14.5 hours to the summit, 5 hours down. Perfect weather, not much wind, but a bit chilly. Reached the summit with my partner, Vaughn, and 4 guys from Norway, thanks for the motivation, guys!

rdesota

rdesota - Jan 25, 2006 10:15 am

Route Climbed: False Polish Date Climbed: January 11, 2006  Sucess!

A long walk, nice day but fairly crowded.

johan

johan - Jan 21, 2006 8:35 am Date Climbed: Jan 18, 2006

Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: 18 Januray 2006  Sucess!

Hola todos!



Reached the top after been waiting 7 days in Nido de Condores before good weather.



Had fresh snow on the way up.



Full story: http://www.aconcagua.inc.se



More pictures can be found here: http://cern.ch/aconcagua



Cheers,

Johan



PS. My own pictures are now online: http://www.cern.ch/johan.karlsson/aconcagua

William Marler

William Marler - Jan 15, 2006 7:14 am

Route Climbed: False Polish Date Climbed: January 10th, 2006  Sucess!

Very good day. Tough slogging at the end due to the dry conditions at the top sections. Very strong team. Ted, Peter, Beverly, Guy, and Laurie. All at the top together.

Andinistaloco

Andinistaloco - Jan 14, 2006 3:06 pm

Route Climbed: False Polish Date Climbed: January 2006  Sucess!

Unbelievably high winds up top made this a fairly miserable summit day, but the days getting to the peak and up to Camp 2 were mostly nice and the views coming in were incredible! Met some great folks on the mountain - and lost all their addresses when the mule carrying my gear drowned in the Vacas river....



edl - Jan 12, 2006 11:58 pm

Route Climbed: Guanacos Valley Date Climbed: Dec. 28th, 2005  Sucess!

Summited on day 15. Excellent weather on summit day. I highly recommend this route, much cleaner and more remote than the more common routes. We never saw other people until high camp.

HeyItsBen

HeyItsBen - Dec 27, 2005 6:59 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: December 2005  Sucess!

Started at the ranger station near Penitentes on December 7th and made the summit on December 17th. Had good luck with the weather.

Alpinist

Alpinist - Dec 19, 2005 7:44 am Date Climbed: Dec 15, 2005

Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: December 15, 2005  Sucess!

Peak Freak and I had intended to take the Polish traverse route, but Plaza Argentina was not open yet due to an avalanche along the mule trail. So the Normal Route was the only viable option for us.

It took 10 hours to summit from high camp at Colera (5850 meters), and 3 hours to return to camp.

I met several new friends from SP during the trip. Corax, Nadios and their team from Sweden summited on the same day as I did. (What a great group of people!). Tom and Jim from Denver also made their summit bid on the same day. And of course, my climbing partner Peak Freak. Thanks for the comradery! Thanks also to Ken from Texas for providing us with additional fuel at high camp following his successful summit attempt and descent.

Trip Report

dkmayhew

dkmayhew - Nov 13, 2005 9:20 pm

Route Climbed: Polish Traverse Date Climbed: Feb,2002  Sucess!

Had a great experience. Was very lucky with weather and only had one day of snow when at high camp at 19,000. Summit day was perfect with no wind, it was actually to hot for me. It is sad to see people do stupid things on a mountain.They end up getting hurt, or worse. This also puts the climbers around them who end up helping at risk.

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