Aconcagua Climber's Log

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Juho

Juho - Feb 28, 2008 4:38 pm Date Climbed: Jan 8, 2008

Ameghino Valley & Upper Guanacos Traverse  Sucess!

Summited on the 12th day after starting the walk up the Vacas Valley. Perfect weather all way long and acclimatized better than ever. It took only 75 minutes to dash up to the summit via Canaleta. Too easy.

Woodie Hopper

Woodie Hopper - Feb 6, 2008 9:41 pm Date Climbed: Feb 2, 2008

Upper Relinchos- traverse  Sucess!

Traversed the mountain from Plaza Argentina via the "upper Relinchos" route. Summit day from Colera was windy. About 12 inches of fresh snow called for crampons from high camp to the summit.

LS

LS - Feb 5, 2008 7:32 pm Date Climbed: Jan 14, 2008

Aconcagua freezing  Sucess!

My first summitpush ended after EXTREMELY COLD winds in the traverse, but 4 days later I finally summited. I did everything myself (unsupported and no mules or service provider), and because I was in S-America anyway my total costs for Aconcagua was only 500 USD. I know most people pay 10-20 times more than that to reach the summit.

Read the entire trip report here:
www.distantpeak.com/cms/story/191/aconcagua

SawtoothSean

SawtoothSean - Feb 2, 2008 6:15 pm Date Climbed: Jan 26, 2008

High  Sucess!

Summited via the normal route on a cold and windy day with sun interspersed with clouds and snow showers. Everyone is pretty much at a crawl above 21,000 feet with the lack of oxygen- it's quite amazing to see great mountain athletes taking small baby steps and rest steps. My partner came back with a black frostbitten thumb, and myself with lasting numb fingers despite OR expedition mitts (a good testament as to the conditions). It was full cramp-ons from Indepencia hut upwards, and all paths were windblown / ice blown over, making the decent slow going. The only good thing was the Canaleta was snow/ice covered. Because of the particular conditions, higher altitude, and bigger gain, I would rate this particular summit day slightly harder than my Denali West Buttress summit day. We slept at White Rocks/Colera near Berlin- 3 nights, Nido- 2 nights. The heavy pack haul down from 19,300 to 14,100 the day after summit day in 4 hours was as difficult as anything on the whole trip.

Diggler

Diggler - Feb 1, 2008 8:57 am Date Climbed: Jan 28, 2008

Ruta Normal  Sucess!

My partner Eric dropped out during our acclimatization attempt due to snow blindness.

I continued on to the summit via the Normal Route- summited in 8 hrs from Berlin Camp (7.00 - 14.57).

The mountain isn´t the most aesthetic I´ve ever seen or experienced, but it is absolutely ENORMOUS, and definitely regal. I couldn´t believe how difficult it was to move above 21,000´!

While disappointed I didn´t get to do the Ibanez-Marmillod route like I´d really desired, I appreciate having attained the summit, and the experience that the affair ended up being anyway. Good summit to start off 2008! :)

Peace, and to all Cerro Aconcagua aspirants- bear in mind that even if you want to do the ´walk-up,´the altitude, weather, and temp´s of a mountain of this size should be major considerations.

rickford

rickford - Jan 19, 2008 1:51 pm Date Climbed: Jan 5, 2008

Unpleasant experience

My friend Chris Umphres and I failed to summit via the normal route. Because we nelgeted to bring crampons and ice axes, we had no hope against an iced-choked caneleta. Our overall experience on the mountain was generally unpleasant. Every camp site was crowded and the scree was a nightmare. The views, particularly the sunsets and colorful mountains were quite nice, however. The water at Confluencia, as well as the snow at Nido, have unusually high amounts of magnesium. This is a natural laxative. We didn't use Mules on the approach or take much time to acclimate. Hence we were exhausted before we even really started. It was a total suffer-fest. When somebody mentioned surfing in Uruguay- we packed up and got the hell out of there...

Mathias Zehring

Mathias Zehring - Jan 16, 2008 6:22 pm Date Climbed: Jan 7, 2008

normal route  Sucess!

expedition climb with german organization adventure train. We had very good conditions with possible use of crampons on the upper 1000m. Because we feared stormy weather on the following days we startet the summit climb at Nido de Condores Camp. It took me 8h to the summit where I stayed more than 3 hours with almost no winds. Great experience!
I invite you to take a look at my picture trip report

e_wire

e_wire - Jan 16, 2008 8:34 am Date Climbed: Jan 8, 2008

Vacas route  Sucess!

Climbed to the summit via the Vacas valley route. We went up to regular camp1, then camp 3 of the Guanacos route, and finally to camp Colera. From there we did our summit. We left Base camp on January 5... So no days for acclimatazation, but it still worked fine!

Ialewis

Ialewis - Jan 14, 2008 2:48 pm Date Climbed: Jan 1, 2006

Polish Direct  Sucess!

My partner and I had excellent snow conditions on our trip. We found mellow kick-stepping up the low angle glacier which leads to a mellow rock step and a little flat walking to the summit. We spent seven hours round trip from camp 2. The Polish Direct is a lot of walking for an anticlimactic summit day, but still worth the trip.

utclimber - Jan 8, 2008 12:23 pm Date Climbed: Dec 27, 1998

False Polish  Sucess!

I had very clear weather on summit day, but it was extremely cold. A very memorable experience.

MountainHikerCO

MountainHikerCO - Dec 28, 2007 7:31 pm Date Climbed: Jan 5, 2007

Great Climb  Sucess!

Summitted with timfoltz. Almost no wind on top. We used an extra acclimation day at Nido. We did use an axe at Nido for chopping ice to melt! 11 days TH to TH.

bighornmonkey

bighornmonkey - Dec 25, 2007 8:56 am Date Climbed: Jan 10, 2006

Never used crampons...  Sucess!

Successful summit! We went up the false Polish and down the normal route. Circumnavigating the mountain was way worth it.

hfaust

hfaust - Dec 20, 2007 1:51 pm

Normal Route  Sucess!

Summited from Nido and dropped back to Mulas that afternoon

bluefunk

bluefunk - Dec 20, 2007 1:14 pm Date Climbed: Dec 27, 2005

Polish Traverse  Sucess!

Climbed the False Polish route instead of the Polish Direct after one of our climbing partners got HAPE. Make shure you take your time it is a easy mountain to run up and get hammered by the altitude!!!

ClimberMan420

ClimberMan420 - Nov 17, 2007 3:56 pm

cold summit, long week

me and my climbing parnter had a completly succesful summit on pretty perfect day. We summited in 7 days as we were already acclimatized from travelling in Bolivia. I very highly recomend a few weeks travelling in Bolivia to acclimatize and adjust to teh local bacterias of South America. I saw to many people sruggle with the altitude and getting sick. We climbed unsupported by guides nor mules and paid teh low season permit. Total cost of food, transport, permit = less than $200. It seems that people like to pay a lot of money for guides that wont neccesarily help them much. BUT if you get sick, GO DOWN. be conservative with the altitude

radson

radson - Aug 19, 2007 8:00 pm

Normal Route Dec 2005  Sucess!

Went with Aymara. Found it quite cold compared to Nepal the month before.

Sara_Matisse

Sara_Matisse - Aug 11, 2007 11:56 am

Well... almost

Well... after a rough expedition (I was sick the whole time with what I called concrete boogies, which I guess can be common from all the mule/people crap and dust), and after being sedentary at high camp at 19,300ft. for 3 days... My lungs couldn't take any more... I had to get down. The rest of my group went up while I packed my stuff to go down. I had a great party with the locals at base camp:) which made up for my crappy luck on the mountain!!! All completed by a day of bouldering -which was super fun too:D

Sara_Matisse

Sara_Matisse - Aug 11, 2007 11:55 am

Well... almost

Well... after a rough expedition (I was sick the whole time with what I called concrete boogies, which I guess can be common from all the mule/people crap and dust), and after being sedentary at high camp at 19,300ft. for 3 days... My lungs couldn't take any more... I had to get down. The rest of my group went up while I packed my stuff to go down. I had a great party with the locals at base camp:) which made up for my crappy luck on the mountain!!! All completed by a day of bouldering -which was super fun too:D

schulzj

schulzj - Aug 1, 2007 3:39 pm Date Climbed: Feb 1, 2006

False Polish Glacier traverse  Sucess!

My friend Richard and I summitted in perfect weather. We couldn't have asked for better conditions. The trips was perfectly by an Argentinian company. I recommend the less trodden route up the Vacas valley and traversing the Polish glacier.

Shirley Lam

Shirley Lam - Jul 26, 2007 3:03 pm Date Climbed: Jan 11, 2006

Up Polish Traverse, Down Normal Route

Listening to the New Year's countdown in about 10 different languages at Plaza Argentina put a smile on my face...

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