Well ! All I can say is that because of altitude sickness those were the worst days of my entire life. Yes, I reached the summit but I suffered too much.
We were lucky to have pleasant weather on summit day, although the previous week only 2 people had summitted due to bad storms. You just have to be lucky with the weather when it's your turn for summit day.
The normal route is technically easy, but much will power is needed for the duration of the expedition. The summit day is long and hard, the entry to the Canaleta is just as bad as the real thing. Keep your head down and persevere, just keep going, that's all you can do. The goal is enough to continue, as a bonus you're likely to be the highest person in the world when on the summit. Good luck to everyone...
RJ Secor and I flew to Mendoza in late February 98. RJ came to Aconcagua to obtain additional material for his 2nd Edition Aconcagua Guide and I went with him because I just got laid off and I never climbed down there. We came to climb the seldom attempted Ibanez-Marmillod Route but the horrible weather changed our plans completely. The El Nino was raging in South America that year and Aconcagua had horrible weather. After we aborted the Ibanez-Marmillod at about 6,000m, RJ went to take GPS measurements on the South Face approach and I climbed the Regular Route. Later the Park officials told us, that over 1,500 permits were issued in 1998. I was number 78 to summit.
We have guided the Poilish Direct and Polish Traverse. We have stood on the summit 5 times.
Drop us a line if you have any questions!
Had to pull back at White Rocks due to a bad storm.
I used Mountain Madness for a guide service. There were three of us in our group plus the guide. One guy got sick at Base Camp and had to go home. We made it to Berlin Camp. The weather was horrible. It snowed every day. I tried to summit but I was too beat. I threw in the towel and descended. I just ran out of energy.
Beautiful sunny day!
A beautiful day; sun and no much wind. I was been very luky.
Solo on the summit; 7,50 hours from Camp II.Snowy from tents to the summit.The same day other two italian guys reach the summit climbing the Direct Polish. Thank's to guys at Plaza Argentina; they are great.
Summited in 7.5 hours from Nido de Condores, at 12:15. No trouble, having spent a lot of time on the mountain and acclimatized very well. The Canaleta was still snowy, which helped a lot.
Climbed it solo. Loads of new snow and very cold on summit day. Great few weeks away. If anyone needs some GPS points for this route let me know by emailing - firstname.lastname@example.org
We had outstanding weather, which made life much easier. This was a very social mountain, I enjoyed meeting people from all over the world. We spent 11-days getting to the top, & 2-days coming down. This was a good schedule for us, as nobody was effected too badly by the altitude. The scenery wasn't much to talk about, dry & barren, so I spent my time talking to all the different folks.
Fairly easy climbing all the way up. Took my time with my group ascending. Spending many days at base camp which help make a quick ascent towards the top. From Nido de Condores, (18,000') to summit and back in 6 hours. Very stormy out for a summit day.
Up the False Polish, down the Normal route with MtnArtman.
Hiked in from the Highway alone, summited in 11 days. Thanks to all the great people who lent a hand along the way!
6 french people eric,bernard, gilles, franck, christophe and didier.
Day 1 (09/01/2001) :rio vacas to pampa de lenas
Day 2: casa de piedra
Day 3: base camp,plaza de argentina
Day 4: Rest day at base camp
Day 5: camp1
Day 6: camp2
Day 7: summit of aconcagua by the direct polish glacier route (10 hours) and descending by the falso until camp2 (4 hours)
Day 8: base camp
Day 9: pampa de lenas
Day 10: rio vacas
we have summitted in total alpine style and we do not have used mules to reach base camp. We have done our acclimatation before in chile (Lascar 5100m and Parinacota 6300m)
Climbed with Mountain Madness, with Cecelia Mortenson as lead guide. Great way to spend the last day of the millennium. We then went down through the Normal Route.
Several times on the summit. Always an epic. This is a peak that always draws me back year after year. Many thanks to Laurie Skreslet for giving me the opportunity to guide with him each year. February 1987, February 1988, January 1990, December-January 1990-01, January 1992, January 1995, January 1997, January 1999, December 1999, January 2000, December 2001 and December 2003. January 10, 2006. I'm writing it all down here as I am starting to lose track of the years I have put in on this peak. Now if I added together all the loads I have carried.... (•: Cheers William Marler