Acrophobia

Page Type
Route
Location:
Wyoming, United States, North America
Route Type:
Rock-Classic Aid
Time Required:
Most of a day
Difficulty:
C2+, 5.8

Route Quality: 6 Votes

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Page By:
Acrophobia
Created On: May 29, 2001
Last Edited On: Nov 15, 2007

Approach

Approach over the South West Shoulder. The route is 2 cracks right of Direct Southwest. Scramble up as high as possible, to a good belay stance.

Route Description

This route was first climbed by Steve Gardiner and Mark Brackin on June 22, 1980. It was a Hallmark climb for them, celebrating a Coming of Age and representing the Mark of Independence and High Quality. The first pitch of the climb has been free climbed, by Tim Toula and Paul Chamberlain. It is a challenging 5.12c stem, named Space Challenger.

Pitch 1. (C2+, 150 ft.) Follow the right hand corner, on clean, interesting aid, to a secure hanging belay

Pitch 2. ( C1,75 ft.) Keep aiding up the corner to set up a secure belay on the column top to the left.

Pitch 3. (C2+, 150 ft.) Continue up the same crack, until it ends, then traverse to the right, under 2 large roofs, turning them on their far right. You can set a good belay, on bigger pieces, about 20 ft. above the roof.

Pitch 4. (5.8, 165 ft.) Climb this Classic, "Top-of Devils-Tower-Chimney" to its end. The more big pieces that you take, the more secure you will feel. There are several "fixed" pins in this section so you might take a hammer to make sure that they are still fixed, and please take runners to tie off numerous natural chockstones.

Essential Gear

This route features about every size of crack imaginable. Please take a multiplicity of small wired stoppers and RP's for the lower section and a copious supply of wide pieces for the exit chimney.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.