Take the True West Face Approach to the Tulgy Wood start.
This route was first done in 1983 by Chris Engle and Frank Sanders. They had hope that the 2nd pitch might have free climbing possibilities. It doesn't, oh well. Its still a neat route and you don't have to climb that wide pitch on Tulgey Wood.
Pitch 1. (130 ft.,5.10a) Climb the first pitch of Tulgy Wood to the 2-Big Bolt anchor on the column top.
Pitch 2. (160 ft., A2) From the belay, pick the left hand crack and aid up it to a very secure hanging anchor, that you set yourself. Nothing too tuff !!
Pitch 3. (60 ft., A2) Continuing in the same crack, aid your way out of the belay and on to the spacious West Ledges to the 2 Big Bolt Belay. This ledge has some of the best views on the entire Tower.
Finish. (170 ft., 5.8) Continue to the summit on the McCarthy West Face Route.....Raise your hands in victory. You have just done a fine free and aid route up the steep side of the Tower. If you climb during the Tourist season, you will be part of 100's of slide shows, photo albums and videos !!!!!
The aid portion takes a Standard Aid Rack with an emphasis on a wide assortment of Lost Arrows and Knifeblades. Be sure to take extra small to medium pieces for the 1st pitch and some Big Pieces (specifically two #4 Friends or Camalots) for the Finish.
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