After exiting the first...

After exiting the first prominent gully gaining the snow rib that leads to the second gully.

Reid Glacier Headwall route

February 2003


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Martin Cash

Martin Cash - Feb 11, 2003 9:18 am - Hasn't voted

Nice pics

Nice one Hammer. The Reid looks a lot more interesting than Leutholds. How much harder is it?

What a great weekend for climbing.


Hammer - Feb 11, 2003 11:00 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Nice pics

I thought it was much harder. The amount of front pointing was hours longer. I have done Leutholds without any protection and thought nothing of it. We placed protection all over the place on Reid's and I thought we could have put more in due to the angle and consequence of an uncontrolled slide. Time necessitated that we didn't however.

I found it more physically challenging than any of the mountains I did in Mexico.


JScoles - Feb 11, 2003 10:47 am - Hasn't voted

Silly Question

Why would you rope up on this section??

It seems to me if one of you fell he or she would just drag the rest of you down??

Don't take this the wrong way I am just courious about when and why people rope up.


Hammer - Feb 11, 2003 10:57 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Silly Question

Icy conditions required periodic placement of protection to ensure safety. It made more sense to stay roped. There were spots that were 55 degree+ and icy that necessitated screw placement.


JScoles - Feb 12, 2003 4:58 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Silly Question

Makes perfect sense.


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