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markhallam - Aug 13, 2014 1:26 am - Voted 10/10

Great climbing...

...and excellent filming - move over Hollywood, Bald Eagle Productions are coming!
Must say, I'm quite (uncharacteristically) attracted to Dibona (great big pointy things not my normal choice for climbing) - but I believe there is a short PD route to the top?
I have tentative plans to take my middle offspring & his little family to the Ecrins area next year - and the Soreiller Refuge looks to be a great place to take all, but with the option to take my son up a shortish route whilst there...
Best wishes, Mark

Bald Eagle

Bald Eagle - Aug 13, 2014 5:50 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Great climbing...

Hey Mark
Muchos gracias for your kind words and positive feedback!
Yep the Dibona is a very beautiful and captivating mountain and as you say there is a short PD (about 2 pitchs of VD in English money)up the back. However be aware that this is the usual descent route and there are likely to be lots of climbers abbing down on any nice day of weather! The Soreiller refuge is very nice and the guardian Martine is a delight and very helpful so I hope your trip comes together next year as it is a magical place to visit! :-) Cheers Dave


markhallam - Aug 13, 2014 12:29 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Great climbing...

Thanks Dave
Might just be up to 2 pitches of VD for this mountain (although have to say my rock-climbing days are pretty much in the past now - apart from the odd hard 'scramble') Noted about abbing climbers... is there fixed protection by the way?
BTW - I also enjoyed Bald Eagle productions for Monch Sanction, which was a happy reminder of taking my wife up back in 2007 - and also Eiger Mitellegi, although that is one that would definitely be outside my comfort zone now!
Cheers, Mark

Bald Eagle

Bald Eagle - Aug 14, 2014 3:55 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Great climbing...

Hi Mark
To the best of my hazy recollection (end of a long day and abbing down the voie normale) it is a straightforward and well-cairned walk from the hut of about 300m height gain, finishing with an easy stroll over a short snow slope (might require axe and/or crampons in other years but we did not bother!). Then there is an exposed scramble traversing left to right as you look up which we and most other parties roped up for in descent, easily protected with a few slings to the start of the proper climbing in the breche. From there it is about 2 pitches of VD and obviously the belay/ab stations are well-equipped but I do not recall any pitons or bolts on the route itself though I may be wrong. I would take a small rack (nuts + friends) and the Soreiller refuge guardian (the lovely Martine) would be able to advise on what gear would be required. Hope this helps matey! Cheers Dave

Silvia Mazzani

Silvia Mazzani - Aug 13, 2014 10:36 am - Voted 10/10

Great monument!

And great place to climb! I had been twice there, but i always had bad weather!
All the best. Cheers. Silvia

Bald Eagle

Bald Eagle - Aug 14, 2014 3:59 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Great monument!

Grazie Silvia and the Dibona is a very beautiful place to climb
with some superb routes such as Voie Madier + Visite Obligataire as well as the Face Sud Classique. Definitely worth a "third time lucky visit" for you and the sun will surely shine from dawn to dusk! :-) Cheers Dave

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