Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 45.89566°N / 6.91059°E
Additional Information Elevation: 11486 ft / 3501 m
Sign the Climber's Log


Hi I have just taken over this page and will be work on it as i get more knowledge of the mountain and it's please do not rate it till this message has been removed :-) Aiguille du Fou is a some what over shadowed peak which is seem lost (next to Aig. de Blaitiére) in the huge mass of the Aiguilles that over look the village of Chamonix. It is most likely known or remembered for it South face route Voie Classique which went to T. frost, S. Fulton, J. Harlin and G. Hemmings in (all from the Stanford alpine club i believe) in July 1963, with 300m of climbing at grade of ABO (if freed). Climbing on the valley side is less difficult but problematic all the same with routes requiring both rockclimbing and high mountain skill, namely route finding problems and the danger of stone fall in several areas. Aiguille du Fou was first summited on July 16th 1901 by E Fontaine (who the series of ledges, which are notoriously difficult to follow are named after) and J Ravanel. Fou is normal climbed in conjuction with Aig. de Blaitière as follows. IF COMING TO CHAMONIX CHECK OUT it has everthing you need to know about the area.

Getting There

Chamonix can be reached without to much trouble via Car (if traveling in winter it is advisable to carry chains or at least have winter tires. The crossing over the pass after Martigny can be a bit hairy at times of heavy snow so it is best to check snow forecasts ( and plan to drive via Geneva if heavy snow is forecasted below 1500ms) Note; the Swiss sometime (mostly during the ski season) have a speed camera setup before Martigny. Bus from either Geneva airport or Geneva Bus station. Or by Train which departs from directly below the airport to Martigny then change to Chamonix. If money is no object a taxi from the airport will set you back around 250 euro as i was informed by one very p*%"ed off guy whose plane was late in. ACCESS TO AIG. DU FOU SOUTH FACE Make your way to the Montenvers Train station and take the train (10.30 euro one way, 13.40 euro return) up to Montenver (1910M) from the train station follow the path (south) which leads down to the Mer Glacier which uses a series of ladders to reach the glacier. Head up the Glacier (normally well traveled with limited route finding problems), as you reach the 2000m mark watch on the right side for yellow paint and ladders, follow this path below the Trélaporte glacier to the Envers des Aig. hut (approx 3hrs). Note; the Area directly below the hut offers single pitch climbs (mostly around grade 5) which will be past on the way to the hut or you can rappel on to the climbs from the hut. Once leaving the hut for Aig du Fou descend slighty below the Envers de Blaittiere glacier (keep an eye on the serac), then head up from the first point of Natillons. VALLEE SIDE Take the Aig du Midi cable car ( 13 euro one way,15 euro return) to the half way station at Plan de l' Aig. From there head (NNE) past the small lake to reach the slopes of Aig de Blaitiere and make you approach on your chosen route from there. I would highly recommend ( if you have the energy) hiking down the valley on one of the trails which leads back to Chamonix , the trail that brakes of the Montenvers trail and passes the Blaitieres hut (1926m) is my fav and a bit less traveled that the one that goes down from the SW of the station. But both give great views of the vallee.

Red Tape


When To Climb

Fou is generally viewed as a summer climb but anything is possible (these days).


As in most of this area over night Bivi's are ok and do not raise much attention. But be sure to leave the area as you found it (sorry i know i don't need to tell you that). CAMP SITES IN THE AREA CHAMONIX >>L'ile Des Barrats 185 Chemin de I'ile des Barrats 04 5053 5144 Open from 8/5-1/10 53 sites 3 star >>Les Rosieres 121 clos des Rosieres 04 5053 1042 open from 7/2 - 30/9 127 sites 3 star >>Les Arolles 281 chemin du Cry 04 5053 1430 15/6 - 30/9 30 sites 2 stars >>Les Molliasses Chemin a Batiorert 04 5053 1681 open 1/6 - 15/9 164 sites 2 stars LES PRAZ La Mer De Glace 200 Chemin de la Bagna 04 5053 0863 or 04 5053 4403 open 10/6 - 15/9 150 sites 3 stars LES BOIS Les Drus BP 30 04 50 53 4920 open 28/3 - 30/9 70 sites 2 stars ARGENTIERE >>Glacier d' Argentiere 58 Chemin des Moillettes 04 5054 1736 or 04 5054 0373 open 15/5 - 30/9 80 sites 2 stars LES BOSSONS >>Les Deux Glaciers 80 rte des Tissieres 04 5053 1584 open 15/12 - 15/11 135 sites 3 stars >>Les Marmottes 140 Chemin des Doux 04 5053 6124 open 15/6 - 30/9 100 sites 3 stars >>Les Cimes 28 route des Tissieres 04 5053 5893 open 1/6 - 30/9 100 sites 2 stars >> Les Ecureuils Chemin des Doux 04 5053 8311 open 1/4 - 30/9 45 sites 2 stars >>Les Verneys 180 route des Tissieres 04 5053 1584 open 1/6 - 15/9 70 sites 2 stars >> Le Grand Champ 04 5053 0483 open 1/5 - 10/10 100 sites 1 star

Mountain Conditions

The best idea is to head to the Guides office and go to the top floor at get weather forecasts (left at the top of the stairs) as well as up to date route information (right at the top of the stairs), Office de Haute Montagne.. open 9am-12noon then 3pm till 6pm +33(0)450532208 weather

Emergency numbers

Radio Frequency 154.4625 Mhz phone +33(0)450 531689 OR European emergency number any mobile phone 112

External Links