Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 45.90635°N / 6.91680°E
Activities Activities: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Summer
Additional Information Elevation: 11423 ft / 3482 m
Sign the Climber's Log


This gorgeous orange granite peak is a Chamonix classic which is usually climbed in a traverse of both the Grepon and the Grand Charmoz. The peak was first climbed in 1881 by Mummery, Burgener, and Venetz. Don't be fooled by its seemingly casual AD- (with sustained 5.8 rock) grade of the traverse - if you are not careful, time can escape you.

Getting There

In Chamonix, take the Aiguille du Midi lift up to the Plan d'Aiguille level and then take the trail heading to the left. Once at the bottom of the Nantillon glacier, take appropriate precautions (depending on conditions) and ascend the glacier to the start of your chosen route. Another approach is possible from the Mer de Glace side - see local maps for more details.

When To Climb

Most ascents are from April-September/October depending on conditions. During the approach be wary of conditions on the Nantillons glacier.

Bivy on the Plan d'Aiguilles for a Good Start

Two choices, bivy up on the Plan d'Aiguille, or take the first tram up, but you'd better be fast. In the Valley: Camping Close to the train station: Grass, no frills. Like a United Nations of climbers spot: Les Arolles T: +33 (0)4 50 53 14 30 F: +33 (0)4 50 53 14 30 Hostel/Gite situation on west end of town (with built-in pub) : (Mainly English speaking crowd) Run by Irishman from Wessex: Le Vagabond 365, av Ravanel le Rouge 74400 Chamonix T: +33 (0)4 50 53 15 43 F: +33 (0)4 50 53 15 43 Hostel/Gite 500m east of Gare SNCF (Train station) (Mainly continental european crowd): Le Chamoniard Volant 45 route de la Frasse 74400 Chamonix T: +33 (0)4 50 53 14 09 F: +33 (0)4 50 53 23 25

Mountain Conditions

Check with the Office du Haute Montagne by the church downtown for the latest route beta, etc. For online weather reports go to: and click on weather.

External Links



Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. For example, the Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' The Aconcagua mountain itself has many routes, photos, and trip reports as children.