Bivied at the Plan du Aiguille for a 3h30 a.m. start and reached the top in 11 hours. Exited on the left-hand side of the Rognon.
Lots of mostly easy rock interspersed with the odd harder pitch. Very loose rock lower down but it improves dramatically once you traverse across to the left-hand side of the arete. The snow / ice pitches seem to go on forever...
i never considered the normal route as a legal way of saying having climbed the aiguille du midi, but after doing the bionassay-mont blanc-maudit-tacul traverse, i do...
Great climb. Not terribly hard but had a lot of fun. Had a little of everything...rock, ice, snow and rappels. It can get a little crowded, which is not too fun in a couple of the more tricky sections. Note to the pushy Italian guide, thanks for climbing over our rope and pulling your party of 4 in between me and my climbing partner on the last chimney. It was still alot of fun though, and would definitly recommend it.
A simple warm up roue, but if climbing in summer, make sure you get an early start, as you'll end up having to que at the crux pitch, while being pushed out the way by French guides!
Prepare for a long hard day, and go as light weight as possible.
great mixed route at the very right of the north face. three pitches in goulotte of 70/75 degrees maximum (IV/4-) plus a rock passage of V. beatiful winter bivy. Picutes here
Done from Chamonix going all the way up via the Mer de Glace. Quite cold because it was winter. Went with snowshoes and carried complete bivouac equipment (tent inclusive) the way up. To see the Mont Blanc group in winter is marvellous! Also some pics at www.climbingtours.net
Via classica (Gaston Rébuffat)
first climb in the alps (01), want a great introduction.
and in winter late 03.
nice climb good day out
Nice route. We camped at Col du Midi and started from there. Took us about 3 hours, mostly simul-climbing with only a few protected pitches and one 20-meter rappel. We used this climb as for acclimatization for the Traverse of Mont Blanc, a few hours later. Needless to say we ended completely trashed back at Col du Midi after the whole ordeal!
A fine mixed route in fair condition,however the wait at the final pitch was frustrating,allow 1hr extra and perhaps 40mins at the abseils onto the time.
lifts make this feel like sport alpine climbing. still a classic
What I remember the most of this climb is that the day started wonderful, then just after we started on the "spur" the weather turned stormy and the wind got very strong and man was it hairy! In the conditions we went to far to the left of the rock at 3700, had to climb back down to find the beginning of the cracked slabs. The cracks by the chimney were a bit icy and hard and slowed us down and I was extremely tired when we reached the Midi-Plan Ridge.
We took the first gondola up to the midstation. It was a pretty dry summer so we didn't found too much ice at all. Nice granite climbing. This is a good "acclimatisation" climb to prepare for some bigger stuff. Kind of strange beiing observated by all the tourists from the gondola while climbing. But the ride down is sooo great. Good memories and a great climbing partner.
cool. cold, even.
A beautiful and pleasant climb. We started at one o'clock in the afternoon and were the last group of the day to complete the ascent. The nice thing about this climb is the alternation of snow and rock while the grade of the route isn't that difficult. Due to small amount of snow on the route we climbed it without the use of crampons.
Had a wonderfull time and good company!!!