I climbed here this summer and the route finding was tricky. The usual guidebook was useless. we seem to have got on the integrale for a good while, so some of the sections felt much more sporty and technical in big boots. Most of the climbing was only slightly harder than the arete du pappilon but the conditions caused for some very challenging sections, namely the chimney, that had a lot of ice over the holds. (Bringing crampons and an axe might have helped in the areas like this, as some sections became a little tricky when the holds were obscured by ice, although it was in warm september 03). Descent was long as it was down-climb/scrambly with a couple of belays and we were all tired, the cairns were hugely useful to descend efficiently. Stunning summit; A really fun and beautiful alpine route.
louise alexander - Jan 30, 2004 9:05 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentI climbed here this summer and the route finding was tricky. The usual guidebook was useless. we seem to have got on the integrale for a good while, so some of the sections felt much more sporty and technical in big boots. Most of the climbing was only slightly harder than the arete du pappilon but the conditions caused for some very challenging sections, namely the chimney, that had a lot of ice over the holds. (Bringing crampons and an axe might have helped in the areas like this, as some sections became a little tricky when the holds were obscured by ice, although it was in warm september 03). Descent was long as it was down-climb/scrambly with a couple of belays and we were all tired, the cairns were hugely useful to descend efficiently. Stunning summit; A really fun and beautiful alpine route.