Aiguille Pierre André

Page Type
Ubaye, France, Europe
Hiking, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
9360 ft / 2853 m
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Aiguille Pierre André
Created On: Jun 27, 2002
Last Edited On: Mar 20, 2018


Aiguille Pierre Andrè 2897 m

Aiguille Pierre Andrè is a stunning pyramidal peak belonging to the Chambeyron range, Ubaye valley. Due to the harmonious shape and the beauty of the rock, it is considered as the Aiguille Dibona of the Ubaye.

The Chambeyron
The Chambeyron

Although not so superb and flashy, it's a beautiful slender spire, with a South-South-East wall built with an excellent quartzite, showing a strong orange color. A beautiful needle in a wild context with great equipped climbs, especially in its South-East face.
Four routes are located on the spire, amongst those the most frequently climbed is Marmottes Givrées, a magnificent steady route on extra quality orange quartzite leading directly on the summit. 
On Aiguille Pierre Andrè the quartzite is very rich in handholds and this fact make it possible to climb on extremely steep walls without exceeding the grades 6a+/6b (5.12b).
The Normal route rises along the shortest West wall. There are no weak sides and to reach the summit needs to climb, so every route, even the Normal one, involves the use of climbing gear.

Aiguille Pierre André
Aiguille Pierre André
Aiguille Pierre André
Aiguille Pierre André
Aiguille Pierre André annotated pano

Aiguille Pierre Andrè and Aiguille Large de Mary annotated pano

Getting There

The starting point to climb on Aiguille Pierre Andrè is the hamlet of Maljasset. It can be reached:

From Durance Valley - Gap or Sisteron - Barcelonette - St-Paul/Ubaye - Maljasset
From Durance Valley - Embrun or Briançon - Vars pass - St-Paul/Ubaye - Maljasset
From Italy - Colle della Maddalena - St-Paul/Ubaye - Maljasset

Aiguille Pierre André
Aiguille Pierre André

From the hamlet of Maljasset take the itinerary to Col Mary, starting with a dirty road through the larches, then becoming a steeper path. At the second grassy terrace there is a junction where you must leave the main trail to Col de Mary and take the right branch (signpost "11ème BCA"), a narrow path crossing a stream, then rising with several hairpins and leading below Pierre Andrè South face (2 hours from Maljasset).

Main routes

The main routes to climb the summit:

- Normal Route (West Face) 3b, 3 pitches, route equipped with some rings along the pitches and anchors at the belays - Short climb developing on the West wall of the spire. It is frequented above all to descent from the top of the spire.

Red quartzite on Marmottes Givrées
Red quartzite on Marmottes Givrè
Getting the stance on the route SSE, Aiguille Pierre Andrè
Getting the stance on the route SSE

- Marmottes Givrées TD, French 6a+ max, UIAA VI+, YDS 5.10a, 200 m (6 pitches), route equipped with bolts - A beautiful and athletic climb not to be missed, perhaps the finest on the spire. It's more modern, more direct than the SSE, a little better equipped (spaced bolts in the easy) and more difficult. Some climbers have seen marmots work food inside their backpacks....

- La SSE (Honorat-Cerciello) UIAA V+, 180 m (7 pitches) - Classic route, the start is a few meters to the right of Marmottes Givrées

- Vieux boucs, new look
French 6b max, 200 m (7 pitches) - Another beautiful climbing route with a length more difficult than the rest (6b), which can be bypassed by a simpler section, making the route more homogeneous and accessible.

Marmottes Givrées second pitch
Marmottes Givrè second pitch

Descent route

Aiguille Pierre Andrè - The summit
Aiguille Pierre Andrè - The summit
Rapping down Aiguille Pierre Andrè
Rapping down Aiguille Pierre Andrè
From the summit head to West to find the first fixed anchor.
Abseil down with 3 abseils (25m + 20m + 15m)

Essential gear

There are no hiking trails that climb to the summit, so every route, even the Normal route, involves the use of climbing gear.

Red Tape

There are no particular restrictions in climbing and hiking.
Cars in Maljasset village are not allowed. Leave them in the parking before entering the village.


Maljasset Hut

There's an equipped camping open in summer in Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye.

Otherwise in Maljasset you can stay in:
- Refuge CAF Maljasset

Altitude: 1905 m
Commune: St-Paul/Ubaye
IGN maps: 3538 et 3637 OT
Access: D25 road, access by car
Owner: French Alpine Club - CAF
Guardian: P. Lantelme, chalet du CAF - Maljasset 04530 St Paul-Sur-Ubaye
Beds: 60
Open: from February 1st to May 10th - from June 10th to November 3rd - from December 26th to January 3rd

- Gite d’etape “La Cure”

- Maison d’hotes “La Posada” in Pont d’Estreche

When to climb

Maljasset ancient church
Maljasset ancient church
Ruins of an ancient alp in Mary Valley
Ruins of an ancient alp
Marmottes Givrées
Marmottes Givreé
Marmottes Givrées fourth pitch crack
Marmottes Givreé fourth pitch
Best season goes from middle June to September.


Meteo France Saint Paul sur Ubaye

Guidebooks and maps

Aiguille Pierre André map

Ubaye Guidebook
Ubaye Guidebook
"La grimpe en Ubaye" by Colin Michel CAF
"Alpes du Sud Provence" by Hervè Galley

Map IGN TOP 25 3538 ET, Aiguilles de Chambeyron

External Links

Pierre André details on camptocamp