Ain't No Saint, 5.10b

5th Pitch- 100’- 5.10b/ Take the corner. The first few lie back moves are hard to protect. The crack in the corner ends up large and flaring. Only one lobe of your lower placement will make contact (3”-4”). Start the roof pull by torquing your foot in that flaring crack (watch your pro placements). There is a hidden under cling that will make this awkward pull much easier. Pull the roof and place small gear as you take the right option when the crack splits up and right on a narrow ramp. Make one final 5.10 move on the mantle out of this ramp over suspect rock. Set up belay below the next roof to the right on a nice belay ledge.
Ain't No Saint, 5.10b, 9 Pitches, South Face, Windy Peak, Red Rocks, NV, January, 2010

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Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Feb 3, 2010 3:36 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Neat...

thanks Borut, bit unnerving when you must rely on one lobe in a flare, thus the 2nd piece...must balance not getting in the way of a needed foot torque here though...cheers

fabrizior

fabrizior - Feb 3, 2010 3:04 pm - Voted 10/10

pitch

What a pitch!!!!
Super!!
Fabri

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Feb 3, 2010 3:37 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: pitch

it was a nice pitch Fab, but the route was a bit of a dog when it was all said and done, just too much snow melt for a south facing winter route...cheers

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