Excellent conditions on this very nice route
Good conditions, although the ice was a little thin for optimal screw protection in places. Very stepped out and felt easy as a result. Also very busy. At one point there were three teams on one belay. One of which pulled there ab rope down as I started to lead off resulting in their rope ending up wrapped around my neck with rope burn.
Great névé in the lower couloir - soloing this made us arrive at the beginning of the technical pitches with the first sunrays. Unfortunately it was a little to warm and rock fall became way to serious, so we decided to turn back with 3 pitches left.
Either way an awesome route - really advisable. We'll come back for this one!
Great fun. Got the first cablecar at 8.30 from Chamonix. Approach by foot, then soloed the first snow part, then climbed the 5 remaining pitches in 1,5h. We descended along the route (pegs sometimes little difficult to find) and pushed ourselves back to the warm Midi toilettes. We arrived there at 18.15, with the last cablecar already left, but we were prepared with sleepingbags and stove!
Climbed the Albinoni-Gabarrou Couloir with SP member Bas Visscher. Perfect conditions in the couloir! Only the last pitch was a bit thin. Ski's are usefull for the approach! Great route!
Good climb although very long for my out of shape body. Meant a night walk across the glaciar back to the Abri Simond hut, which was pleasant in hindsight while being nearly unbearable due to extreme exhaustion at the time.