|Route Type:||Trad Climbing|
|Time Required:||Half a day|
|Rock Difficulty:||5.8 (YDS)|
|Number of Pitches:||3|
This is a nice 3-pitch route in an area that doesn't have a whole lot of multi-pitch, and it's definitely away from the crowds that can show up closer to the Red Springs parking lot.
The first pitch has four bolts, the second has two, the third has one, and all pitches have bolted anchors, but this is not a sport route. Unless you are free-solo solid at 5.8, you need trad gear for this climb.
Between the Mountain Project page and the 2016 edition of the Handren guide, there are discrepancies about the nomenclature. Handren calls P1 part of Geriatric Therapy, finishing at the top of P1 of what he labels as Spontaneous Enjoyment, and then he calls P2 and P3 Greek Tragedy, which also is marked and described differently on MP (and submitted by one of the FAists).
However, one of the members of the FA party (Todd Lane-- his partner was Mike McGlynn) submitted this route on MP and named it as it is here. Therefore, I am going with his information, but please note the discrepancy if you own the Handren guide.
After leaving Summerlin on SR 159, take the signed road to Calico Basin and park at Red Springs. Follow the trail north until you are below Black Wall, and take the climbers trail up to the base. The route begins a few yards left of a prominent thumb-like feature.
Alternatively, use a parking area where the road makes a 90-degree turn and hike up from there until you instersect the main trail from Red Springs. This way is probably a little shorter and more direct, and you don't have to worry about the gate hours for Red Springs.
P1-- 5.7, 60'. Climb the slab over a suspect flake. The climbing is thin and a bit heady (somewhat run-out) between the ground and the second bolt. 4 bolts and a bolted anchor along the way (clip one of the bolts for a total of 5 clips on the way up) to a big ledge with a bolted anchor. Lane notes that Mark Limage originally put up the first pitch and that the lower anchors are Limage's for the pitch, and he notes that Chris Burton and Mike Burton installed the second anchor for the finish of Greek Tragedy.
P2-- 5.8, 110'. Move right into a corner and follow the crack system up. After the crack ends, you will need to move up and left to a bolt and then left again to a headwall protected by a bolt. Pull this headwall (crux) and belay from bolted anchors.
P3-- 5.6, 110'. Climb the face to a bolt about 8' up; it's the only bolt on the pitch. Then head for the top. Lane recommends staying left on varnished and better rock, and some MP commenters concur, but I drifted a little right and found decent rock, including a crack system that took good gear. On the ledge up top are bolted anchors.
To descend, you essentially follow the ridge north to the gap, trending right to avoid difficulties. It should be mostly hiking with a few spots of easy scrambling or downclimbing. The MP page gives a fairly detailed description.
Lane suggests nuts and a set of cams up to a #2 C4 in size. I had up to a #4 but don't remember if I used anything that big; if I did, it was in the crack I found on P3.