Alpendurst

Page Type
Route
Location:
Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
Mountaineering
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
D, Rock to UIAA V (4c)

Route Quality: 5 Votes

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Alpendurst
Created On: Apr 12, 2007
Last Edited On: Jan 30, 2011

Overview

Alpendurst was opened in the year 2000 by Georges Gruber and Thomas Tannast. It contains about 350m rock climbing up to 4b-4c in 14 pitches and runs through the S Face of the Jägihorn.



The route is described in plaisir West by Jurg von Kanel.

Approach

There are 2 possibilities to approach the base of the route:
  • starting from the Weissmieshütte after an overnight stay. Follow a small trail N of the hut in the direction of the S Face.

  • starting from Kreuzboden by taking the cable car from Saas Grund early in the morning. Start in NE direction, cross the water and head to the S Face.
In both cases you can pick up the blue-white (alpine path) marks of the normal route to the Jägihorn after a while. Follow them until you can traverse right to the grassy slopes at the base of the face. Not far from the start of the route stands a big cairn to guide you in the good direction. The name "Alpendurst" is painted on the rock at the start of the climb, next to the first belay.

Route Description

Alpendurst poses no routefinding problems at all. Just follow the obvious line of bolts till the next belay. All belays are very well equiped, as well as the route itself. The crux of the route is marked on the by a "V" on the rock. It's possible to climb some parts (or all the way if you prefer) by using a running belay or to combine to 2 pitches at a time using a 70m rope. The route ends just below the cross at the summit.



Descent is very easy and quickly by following the blue-white marks of the normal route. It is not advised to rapel the route because of the limited angle of the face.

Essential Gear

Everything you need for a normal rock climb. A double 50m rope or a single 70m rope, helmet, 10 to 12 quickdraws will be sufficient. Don't forget that it's an alpine rock climb and weather conditions can change abrupt, so carry a raincover and warm clothes with you.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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rgg

rgg - Jul 16, 2014 3:25 pm - Hasn't voted

On skipping belays

With a 60 m rope and sufficient expresses, every other belay can be skipped. Even with a 50 m rope it would be possible to skip most, since we often had plenty of rope left.

We only brought 13 expresses, which meant we had to skip clipping in at some of the bolts to make it to the next belay. I didn't keep track, but I estimate that 16 to 18 expresses will do.

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