Don't trust the fixed lines!
After Island Peak I re-joined my team on the day when they witnessed someone falling to the bottom when the fixed rope broke with him. There were plenty of assurances that things will be checked from there on, which would have been good enough, had there not been as large crowd in camp as there was. I figured its just a hobby and came home. This was my first trip to the Himalayas and the first exposure to fixed rope style of climbing. I found jugging up mountains very uninspiring.
Was going to climb it alpine style but my partner got sick on Island Peak and bailed. I decided to go at it alone since I'd be obliged to use fixed ropes. Ported everything myself (about 26kg) to C1, took a rest day there and luckily ran into two spaniards also going unsupported. We headed together the rest of the way to the summit. 6 days from BC to BC, no porters, no climbing sherpas, no babysitters. We were the only unsupported, independent climbers on the mountain, and sherpas dont seem to like that very much. Astounded by the amount of inexperienced people attempting this climb but who dont even know how to rappel.
Hi- did I see you at Sonam Lodge bellow base camp before the climb? I think you were talking to the swiss couple :). Good job on the climb!
Thanks! I stayed one night in the town before base camp, before going up, but I think it was called Eco Lodge or something. Don´t remember talking to a swiss couple though.
Great climb! Summited 5 days after the route was (finally) opened, which took a long time due to heavy snowfalls early in the season.
Nice mountain-well done to all who did it rope/guide/etc free. I didn't. Still nice
What a beautiful mountain! I climbed this route with my wife in 2002. we spent a month treking around the Khumbu, climbed island and lobuche to acclimatize then made a two day ascent. we were the first group of the season to summit. The last 500 to the summit, absoulutley amazing climbing and exposure. Actually all of it is steep and exposed, but I was loving the last bit the best!!
It was a beautiful experience !!
Summit day was very cold, in fact, two expeditions did not leave Camp 3 that day. I started from Camp 2 at 02:00am, arrived at Camp 3 at 04:40am where I jumped into one of the tents to protect me from the cold wind.
I sat there for almost two hours. At around 06:30am I left for the summit wich I reached at 10:40am. The wind was a killer, 60km/h sometimes even harder. Temperature was -15ºC. I jump into a rimaya for 20min at one point to get out of the wind because I was scared of frostbite.
It was just me in the summit that day. Going down was easier, but I took some precautions.
[+] Info & Photos
Climbed it with FTA on the same group as LS
Took a day trip up one of the slim ridges abutting the steep west spire. It was supposed to be a rest day in Dengboche for us on the way to Everest basecamp, but I felt great and that mountain is just way too captivating. Left with a friend and two Sherpa guides. I was on a mission. No technical climbing gear was used, we scrambled carefully. Unfortunately my friend had to quit about halfway due to slight ams symptoms. We were ascending quite rapidly due to the fairly steep terrain and the relative ease of basically hiking up unhindered most of the way. Got up to about 5100m, give or take. Loads of fun, and seriously beautiful!!! I'm going to make the summit one of these days...
this is simply as good as a classic gets! perfect weather made me almost regret for purposely climbing in blizzards to train for a himal climb. 9 of us summited out of 19, very great odds we hear. non guided too!
After acclimitizing ourselves on Island Peak Tuomas and I climbed Ama Dablam as an independent and self-sufficient part of Dan Mazur's Summit Climb team. That is, did everything above the base camp by ourselves with no porters or guides.
Our plan was to summit from camp 2 but because of nearing weather front descended back to base camp and on the second attempt established camp 3 and summitted from there.
South-West ridge is such an elegant route and we really enjoyed the climb!
A Really beautiful and intimidating mountain. Climbed with a British group led by Tim Mosedale. Summitted with an 18-year-old Brit named Rob Gauntlet. Awesome experience.
An incredible mountain in an incredible place. Camp 2 to the summit back to Camp 2 on summit day. Great weather, but it was cold. We were accompanied by my six year old daughter and wife all the way to base camp at 15,000' - they loved it!
First 6000m+ summit. Climbed with an International expedition led by Dan Mazur. Great route, lots of varied climbing. Wonderful views.
First big mountain. Exellent experience.
reached a high point just beyond the mushroom ridge (23000'). didn't give myself enough time to acclimatize. great route though, with tons of varied climbing including a fair amount of excellent rock. we made the first ascent in 4 years, and first ever danish himalayan expedition.
What a beautiful peak!
We are guiding it again in the Spring of 2003.