This was a really fun and cool peak. But, so much sidehilling to get there. The climb through the chimney to the tunnel near the top was epic. And, the section just before the peak had really cool terrain that felt a lot like the west ridge of Stuart, but with a lot of large loose rock.
If I had to do this over again, I would go over the top of Larabee, cross the ridgeline, then climb the peak to avoid all of the sidehilling on the west side traverse. The ridgeline involves some fun scrambling (and is more technical) but it avoids the gnar sidehilling and thus would be much more enjoyable. There was so much loose rock (and large loose rocks) on the sidehilling that it really made travelling a lot slower than expected.
RyanHoover - Aug 28, 2012 1:18 am Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2012
SE Route
Extremely beautiful area, but I understand why it's rarely climbed!
gimpilator - Aug 26, 2012 2:27 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2012
One Day Attempt
2 of our party of 4 made it to the summit. I turned around just above 7000 feet, for two reasons. 1) I was moving too slow to make the summit and get out before dark. 2) I was scared by all the loose rock. This peak has a long, horribly loose approach. Beyond the end of the trail it's loose terrain the rest of the way.
GrantMyers - Jan 29, 2012 7:19 pm Date Climbed: Jun 16, 1992
SE route
Climb with Dallas Kloke, this is one you have to be careful on!
2 day trip, camped at High Pass.
setrent - Sep 10, 2008 12:54 am Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2008
Southeast Route
An interesting and varied climb up a seldem climbed peak. We were in a white-out on the descent and had to drop to Tomyhoi Lake to find a trail. Do not underestimate the approach.
cheamclimber - Oct 27, 2007 11:58 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2007
American Border Peak Southeast Route
It was a fun climb but rockfall was a serious hazard...I almost got hit in the face by a rock the size of a computer monitor!
antoncauthorn - Sep 8, 2024 5:08 pm Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2024
Fun but so much sidehilling and loose rockThis was a really fun and cool peak. But, so much sidehilling to get there. The climb through the chimney to the tunnel near the top was epic. And, the section just before the peak had really cool terrain that felt a lot like the west ridge of Stuart, but with a lot of large loose rock.
If I had to do this over again, I would go over the top of Larabee, cross the ridgeline, then climb the peak to avoid all of the sidehilling on the west side traverse. The ridgeline involves some fun scrambling (and is more technical) but it avoids the gnar sidehilling and thus would be much more enjoyable. There was so much loose rock (and large loose rocks) on the sidehilling that it really made travelling a lot slower than expected.
RyanHoover - Aug 28, 2012 1:18 am Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2012
SE RouteExtremely beautiful area, but I understand why it's rarely climbed!
gimpilator - Aug 26, 2012 2:27 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2012
One Day Attempt2 of our party of 4 made it to the summit. I turned around just above 7000 feet, for two reasons. 1) I was moving too slow to make the summit and get out before dark. 2) I was scared by all the loose rock. This peak has a long, horribly loose approach. Beyond the end of the trail it's loose terrain the rest of the way.
GrantMyers - Jan 29, 2012 7:19 pm Date Climbed: Jun 16, 1992
SE routeClimb with Dallas Kloke, this is one you have to be careful on!
2 day trip, camped at High Pass.
setrent - Sep 10, 2008 12:54 am Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2008
Southeast RouteAn interesting and varied climb up a seldem climbed peak. We were in a white-out on the descent and had to drop to Tomyhoi Lake to find a trail. Do not underestimate the approach.
cheamclimber - Oct 27, 2007 11:58 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2007
American Border Peak Southeast RouteIt was a fun climb but rockfall was a serious hazard...I almost got hit in the face by a rock the size of a computer monitor!