My thanks to Mark Gould for providing such a nice pictures.
Amin Brakk (Great Tower) 5800m (5850m)
The Amin Brakk is situated in the Nangma Valley of Karakoram. It is in open zone, one did not need a trekking permit or have to pay Peak Royalty fee to climb this mountain tower. 30-35 days round trip from Islamabad is recommended to climb the Amin Brakk.
According to record available Amin Brakk was first attempted in May 1996 and again in 1997 by Basque climbers Jon Lazkano and Adolfo Mdinabeitia. Who had to turn back only 300m from the summit due to bad weather? Finally Amin Brakk received its successful first ascent by Spanish climber Silvia Vidal, Pep Masip and Miguel Puigdomenech in August, 1999 and name this peak to their beloved cook "AMIN".
Like all mountains in Karakoram Rawalpindi and Islamabad is the gateway to the high mountain of northern Pakistan. Islamabad International airport link the world with dozens of international flights each day. From Islamabad road journey to Skardu is by the famous Karakoram highway with 22 to 24 hours (also known as the old silk route). You can also choose to fly with an hour’s flight to Skardu with Boeing 737 (there is only one flight in a day goes and come back same day from Islamabad; during the flight one can see the 9th highest mountain in the world- Nanga Parbat. Be prepared for delays due to bad weather, road blockage during the road journey due to landslides.
A 6 to 7 hours drive from Skardu by jeep will bring you to the Khande Village.
For your trekking journey to the base camp of Amin Brakk you need food, supplies and porters to carry them. Food supplies you can either buy in Islamabad or Skardu. Porters to carry your supplies and equipment, you can hire them in Khande Village. 2005 official porters rates is 300 rupee per stage (150 daily wages + 75 empty return + 75 for food money).
Khande village to the base of Amin Brakk it is two days trekking with river crossing, steep hiking. Amin Brakk base camp is an altitude of 4200m with green pasture around and fresh water running close by.
Each year dozens of expedition try to climb Amin Brakk but until now only three routes have been establish, We have the honour in organizing the successful Russian Extreme Project B.A.S.E. climbing Expedition of 2004 led by Valery Rozov. In this expedition Valery Rozov made the first ever base jump from Amin Check the link www.mountain.ru/expeditions/2004/amin_brakk
Despite having only three sunny days, with good quality of base camp and logistic services the expedition manage to climb.
Please remember most important thing in an expedition is logistics. You should come in an organize way, So you can concentrate your time and efforts on climbing this beautiful mountain.
Back Packers or Low budget to get there
Traveller with plenty of days in hand, can take the cheapest way to reach Khande (Nangma Valley). From Skardu one can take public transport to Khaplu, quite a large town (with all sort of accomodation), the road to Khande (Hushe the last village one hours further from Khande) which crosses the Shyok River just east of Khaplu to Saling and follows to Khande. In 2000, a major flood wiped out a bridge at Khand, seriously damaging Khande village and cutting the road. Until now (2005 summer) the bridge is still not built. The Khande Village is few minutes drive or a short walk from this bridge. The public jeeps runs from Khaplu to Khande or further to Hushe village daily.
The Amin Brakk (Great Tower) is in Open Zone, No Peak Royalty Fee is require to pay, No Trekking Permit is require to obtain from tourism office as the mountain is in open zone.
Spanish "Sol Solet" route this is A5 23 VI 60 Degree ice and first ascent made by Silvia Vidal, Pep Masip and Miguel Puigdomenech in August, 1999.
Czech made the second route on Amin Brakk called "Czech Express" route this is A3 27 VI 70 degree ice and first ascent made on this route by Filip Sihan, Mareck Holecek and David Stastny in September 1999.
The third route on Amin Brakk is called "The Russian route" this route is A3 19 VI and first ascent made on this route by Arcady Seregin, Alexander Lastochkin, Sergey Kovalev and Valery Rozov in July 2004. Valley Rozov also made a successful BASE jump from 300 meters below the top.
When To Climb
May, June, July and August are the best month to climb.
Yes, camping is allowed in the area. There are camping fee in Khande Village. There is no camping fee up in the mountain areas. While up in the mountains please camp little away from Shapard huts.
Mountain Conditions/ Pictures/Links Amin Brakk expedition 2004
Noticias. Barrabes shop.
Everest News about Amin Brakk expedition 2004
Maps on Pakistan
K2 and Baltoro Glacier in the Karakorum satellite image map 1:80 000 scale. Publish by Polski Zwiazek Alpinizmu (PZA) 2004 on 100th anniversary of organized Polish mountaineering and 50th anniversary of first ascent of K2.
Russian Women Amin Brakk Expedition 2010. Please check excellent pictures of this successful expedition.