Anasazi Wall-Sun Bowl, 5.10a-5.13a

Anasazi Wall-Sun Bowl, 5.10a-5.13a

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 34.02623°N / 116.1485°W
Activities Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Fall, Winter
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Dow leading Mushroom Crack, 5.10a*
Dow leading Mushroom Crack, 5.10a*

This small canyon just north of the Candy Bar area has its own approach from Barker Damn road.  The main attraction for off-width climbers is Mushroom Crack, 5.10a*, moderate sport climbers, Physical Graffiti, 5.11a**, and hard sport climbers, Sun Bowl, 5.13a*. 

Perusing, you will find, as with many off width climbs in Joshua Tree, that Mushroom Crack is sandbagged for the grade.  However, it is not sustained, but rather involves a short boulder like problem to getting started in the upper wide section.  The first half is below the grade and the upper third is below the grade.  The entrance into the wide crack corner section hanging above is physical and awkward for the grade. 

You pass by Sun Bowl on the way through the slick rock pass to reach the small canyon where Anasazi is.  Physical Graffiti zig zags up the face directly to the right of Mushroom Crack.   Park at a paved pullout on the west side of Barker Damn road, approximately .4 miles beyond the large gravel parking area at Echo.  Sun Bowl can be seen to the northwest.  Hike across open desert to the small slick rock pass to the left and below Sun Bowl.  To reach Anasazi, continue through the pass and descend into the small canyon complete with wash.  Anasazi Wall is on your right, southwest facing.  Mushroom Crack is the obvious left facing corner that is wide at the top.  Physical Graffiti is on the wall forming the right side of this corner and has a left to right diagonal dike which forms part of the route.  You can rap either route above Physical Graffiti.  Medium to large gear anchor for Mushroom Crack.

Sun Bowl (north side of the pass, southeast facing)

Sun Bowl- 35’-5.13a*/

Anasazi Wall (through the pass on the right, west facing, left to right)

Mushroom Crack- 70’-5.10a*/ A sandbagged (by Jtree standards) off-width from hands to #6.  The crux is short but tough at the point of entry to the OW.  The hands are fun and easy up a rounded, somewhat chossy, corner.  A #4 protects the start of the OW, then #6.  I faced right, but it is hard to get your feet engaged as it overhangs at that point and the crack is to wide for most feet to lock.  This is the crux.  Once up a meter, just typical OW to the top.  Gear belay in horizontal to the left, fixed rap can be reached above Physical Graffiti.  Single to #4 plus a #6.  Dow

Physical Graffiti- 80’-5.11a**/