Ancohuma (Jankhouma, Janq'uma)

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Cordillera Real, Bolivia, South America
Activities:
Mountaineering, Ice Climbing, Mixed
Season:
Summer
Elevation:
21085 ft / 6427 m
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Ancohuma (Jankhouma, Janq'uma)
Created On: Aug 28, 2005
Last Edited On: Dec 2, 2011

Overview

Both Ancohuma and Illampu are located in the northern Cordillera Real, they dominate the east coast of Lake Titicaca (especially from Isla del Sol)

Ancohuma was first climbed by two Germans mountaineers - Adolph Schulze and Rudolf Dienst on June 11th 1919 from Cocoyo via Laguna Negra. The two climbers needed 6 days to reach the summit.

Titicaca]
Ancohuma from the road to...Ancohuma from the road to Sorata
Illampu (left) and Ancohuma...Illampu (left) and Ancohuma
Isla de la Luna, Illampu and...Illampu and Ancohuma
Illampu and Ancohuma from...Illampu and Ancohuma from Lake Titicaca

Getting There

Starting point to climb Ancohuma is Sorata. The cheapest way from La Paz to Sorata is by bus (In 2005 the buses depart from La Paz at the cemetery district several times daily).
There are several hostels and hotels in Sorata. Organize further transport (4x4 and mules) at the trekking agencies located near "Plaza General Enrique Penaranda" - Soratas main square.

Sorata Main SquareSorata



There are two Normal Routes for Ancohuma:

  1. Travel by 4x4 to Cocoyo and continue via Laguna Negra (Laguna Jacha Leche Khota)
  2. via Laguna Glaciar (Laguna Glaciar is also a nice trekking trip 2/3 days)

Red Tape

no restrictions (Jul 2005)

When To Climb

June to August are usually the best months to climb (this period is the Bolivian winter, which has quite stable weather with no rain/snowfall). The later you climb (August ...) expect cold wind and penitents.

sunset at Laguna ChillataLaguna Chillata
Walking up to Laguna Glaciar...Walking up to Laguna Glaciar
sunset - Pico Schulze and...Laguna Glaciar (and Pico Schulze)
en route to the high camp...en route to the high camp
Ancohuma from the high campAncohuma from the high camp
Ancohuma from high campAncohuma from the high camp
Northwest RidgeAncohuma Northwest Ridge
sunset on the descent to...sunset (descending to Laguna Glaciar)

Guide Books, Maps etc

Maps: DAV Cordillera Real Nord (Illampu) 1:50.000
(there is also an IGM map available)

Guidebooks:

  • Bolivia - A Climbing Guide by Yossi Brain (ISBN: 0-89886-495-X)
  • The Andes of Bolivia by Alain Mesili (ISBN: 99905-79-08-3) - www.andes-mesili.com

  • Boliva - lonely planet by Andrew Dean Nystrom et al. (ISBN: 1-74104-018-3)

Miscellaneous Info


  • It is nearly impossible to buy white gas for the stoves in La Paz. Butane/Propane canisters are available at trekking agencies in La Paz.

  • Basic food is available at the market in Sorata. Bring the food for the high camps from La Paz.



  • Several cartographers (also the Times World Atlas) have claimed that Ancohuma is the highest mountain in Bolivia; and have stated the height up to more than 7000m, which would be the highest and only mountain over 7000m outside the Himalayas. The actual edition of the DAV Map (Cordillera Real - Nord, Illampu) states Ancohuma's altitude 6427m.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-6 of 6

DoJo

DoJo - Oct 17, 2005 6:30 pm - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

We did not find any white gas in La Paz. We heard that one trekking agency in La Paz sells white gas (but too late for us)

Corax

Corax - Aug 28, 2005 1:54 pm - Voted 10/10

Untitled Comment

Ancohuma's official ranking is number 21 in South America.

JXM - Oct 12, 2005 10:18 am - Voted 10/10

Untitled Comment

Bring a multifuel stove. Kerosene and white gas (bencina blanca) can normally be found in the auto workshops and painting shops.

DoJo

DoJo - Oct 17, 2005 6:30 pm - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

We did not find any white gas in La Paz. We heard that one trekking agency in La Paz sells white gas (but too late for us)

OWA - Nov 30, 2005 3:22 pm - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

The elevation controversy has been put to rest. In 2002, OWA of Colorado guided a group of teenagers, to the summit and confirmed the actual height of Ancohuma to be 6425 m +/- 2m. The project was sponsored by Trimble and OmniStar and overseen by Jerry Brown of Bear Creek Surveying in Durango who has now mapped the Colorado Trail 3 times and rediscovered the lost Silver Trail in Copper Canyon, Mexico. Here's the link to the full story --http://www.bearcreeksurvey.com/anchouma.htm


rgg

rgg - Apr 23, 2014 4:40 pm - Hasn't voted

Coordinates are a bit off

Try these: 15.854°S / 68.542°W

Viewing: 1-6 of 6