Strong wind - frozen fingers.
Self organized. No guides.
3 days we saw the mountain from lake Titicaca. Majestic to see it rise above the lake. It was a long way towards the basecamp - highcamp. Crux was getting on the glacier... Climate-change made the glacier retreat. Amazing and rewarding climb with views towards the lake and when on the ridge towards Illampu and Amazones... I will never forget that view....
Started at 4 am from La Paz and almost 4 hours later due to car troubles we made it to Sorata where we jumped into a 4x4 for the next hour. The approach to Laguna Glaciar is very long and the porters certainly earned their money. 200 Bs but you could probably negotiate to 150. As always get it in writing to avoid any "confusion" at the end of the day.
One of our climbers was feeling bad so we took it easy for the remainder of the afternoon and enjoyed the stunning views!!The following day we hauled up rope/crampons/boots/tools and harnesses to high camp 1 at the beginning of the glacier hoping to free up some energy for the next day's long summit push.
Starting at midnight from Laguna Glaciar we traveled at a good pace and made the summit at exactly 7am. First part of the glacier was easy and safe, towards the middle we helped another group negotiate some huge crevasses and dicey snow bridges and eventually missed a crucial turn off that brought us to a 50ish degree 100m wall. It looked straight forward in the meager beams of our head lamps so off we went. After a few small patches of ice the snow became real nice so we soloed up and as dawn was breaking we found a way to link back up with the regular route just 150m from the summit. It got real cold on the way up and just as hot on the way down. We were back in the 4x4 by 5 and in La Paz for a late dinner that same night.
Fun easy climb. the weather was so nice that i end it up getting sun burned because i was tanning in my underwear at high camp.
Climbed with fellow SP'ers nbaisburd and kevin treu (see his log and advice below!!). See also trip report, GPS track and photos at my blog Distantpeak
planned for 8 days to do both Acahoma & Illampu but only made it up Acahoma. went up the SW ridge and down the NW ridge. weather stopped the traverse attempt to Agua Caliente. went back to La Paz and had a nice piece of steak and endless fries instead. Illampu will have to wait for another trip.
be careful with the Guias Association in Sorata. they are thiefs and liars. they will charge you double for the Jeep ride and porters. the road to the "trailhead" of Acahoma is not 4x4. a taxi can be had for 100Bs and a porter 75Bs.
Another 6000m twofer.
day 1: leave Sorata and camp at Laguna Chillata
day 2: Get to ¨just below¨ Laguna Glacier
day 3: Summit push ANCOHUMA...steep, AD rating
day 4: traverse to Aquas Calientes (trailhead for Illampu)
day 5: move to Illampu high camp
day 6: Summit push ILLAMPU...D rating. Perfect weather!
Day 7: Walk down to Sorata...need a shower!
Windiest day of my life. Final summit bid was an unconsolidated cornice ridge with 150kmh gusts ripping from the northwest. We bailed after starting the aux Chevalle. Wasn't properly acclimatized, came down with early stage pulmonary edema. Recommend climbers camp on the glacier above the lower crevasse field because there was no trail and route finding was a problem. This climb should have been simple but it wasn't. Dying to go back and get this one plus Illampu.
I climbed with Eloy, a guide from La Paz. We went up more or less directly from the west, which was hard packed frozen snow. On the descent, we initially walked down the south west ridge, then rappelled down.
The conditions on the day were ideal for an ascent. At night, it was cold, so the glacier was frozen solid. However, as there was virtually no wind, it didn't feel cold.
After the sun came out, it got warm. By midday, we were sinking in the old snow every step we made, which slowed us down. Around one o'clock we were back at high camp. After drinking, eating and resting for an hour we descended to Laguna Chilata.
Summited after 4 days from Sorata. Glacier below high camp (5700) was broken and looked "interesting" but proved easy. Route had steeper sections (55-deg max?) but not difficult technically. Summit huge and flat.
Climbed alpine style from Sorata (4 long days). Reached the summit with Martin Herzig & the Wunderlich brothers. It was a great route, technically easy but exposed. New altitude record for all of us!
Failed to reach the summit this summer. Went up the normal route via Laguna Glaciar with René Escobar (Bol). During our way up we had met two other parties who weren't succesfull as well because of a combination of bad weather and glacier conditions.
We encountered the same, the glacier was totally messed up. I knew it was very crevassed but this year it was even more, quite a lot of snowbridges as well, difficult route finding also because of the fairly amount of snow that had been fallen the weeks before. We went up quite high, but things became too risky for us.
Anyway beautiful mountain, taking the global warming into account, i think this one won't become the straightforward mountain it used to be, for a long while....
Summitted via the Northwest Ridge after making high camp around 5700 m. FYI the description of that route in the Yossi Brain guidebook is BS - there is nothing remotely close to 65-degree sections, it is not a technically difficult climb, just long and with occasional steep sections but no more than 50 degrees. It was quite cold and windy on the ridge, however, and the route is certainly not to be underestimated.
We decided to climb from Laguna Verde to save money not hiring a Jeep aswell because its supposed to take less time. The weather was very discouraging on the approach, constant rain. We camped on the glacier at 5450 m after 3 days approach. The glacier was extremrly crevassed but finding route up was not to difficult. We were exhausted when we reached the base of the summit partly because we wernt very acclimatized. Also we wernt sure of the route, our porters had agreed to bring a map but they forgot it. We turned back because of uncertainty witrh the route and very poor visiblilty.
I recomend for climbers to posible hire a porter to Laguna Verde as its hard to find teh way there if there is no vissibility. It is a great place to acclimatize well and then try the summit of Jakouma, I dont think it would be a very dificult climb with good weather and well acclimatized.