Angel's Crest, Chief

Page Type
Trip Report
British Columbia, Canada, North America
Date Climbed/Hiked:
May 31, 2014
Trad Climbing
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81.84% Score
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Angel's Crest, Chief
Created On: Jun 1, 2014
Last Edited On: Jun 2, 2014

Brief Trip report.

This was my third time climbing to the top of the Chief, and definitely a fun and athletic adventure with a great position. This route has a lot of enjoyable moderate climbing on the crest interspersed with a few steep and cruxy sections, lush forests (how do the trees get so big on such a steep rock formation?), and comfortable belays. Despite being a group of three, we climbed relatively quickly (usually the second could tie in just shy of the middle mark, so rarely were both of the followers climbing for more than a few moves). After a late lunch of the south summit, we hiked back down towards the parking lot, taking a three hour detour to climb The Snake* (6p, 5.9) sans crowds and making the day's total 19 or so pitches. Chief and a Half! (*it's interesting to note the biblical connotations of the routes we chose, although we did not realize this until a couple of days later)

Route Overlay

Angel's Crest in morning light, from Squamish. Photo and overlay by Steph Abegg.
Route overlay of Angel's Crest. From Squamish Rock Guides website.
Beckey's topo. From

Some photos taken while climbing the route.

(in order but no descriptions)

More on my website

This trip report is copied from my website, which has several other climbing trip reports and photographs from the North Cascades and elsewhere:


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Angel's Crest, Chief

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