Angelina & Teresita

Page Type
Lecco, Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Time Required:
Most of a day
5°sup (5.8-5.9)
Rock Difficulty:
5.8 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Angelina & Teresita
Created On: May 16, 2005
Last Edited On: Jun 8, 2008

this is both a Mountain and a Route page

as for this structure belongs to a "ridge" of a real mountain we can consider it not a separate summit.


2 of the classical pinnacles in Grignetta Group
Guglia Angelina is frequentely climbed along its normal route (3° sup) that is various and amusing
This pinnacle is a good school for rappeling .. you can get down with a unique 40 m rappel
(climbing schools used to bring here the beginners to teach it )

Best combination, if you have no time enough to climb them all, is the sequence via Mary (Angelina) and via Gandini (Teresita)


Starting from Piano dei Resinelli follow the road till Rifugio Porta.
Follow the Direttissima (path 8) till the Canalone di Val Tesa.
Leave, on the left side, the path and start ascending the channel and, before the big slab with fixed rope,
abandon it to gain the small channel on the left side just under the east grey wall of the Guglia Angelina.

Routes Description

5 different fine classic routes to climb these two pinnacles

to the Guglia Angelina
  • normal route 5 pitches - 3° / 4°
  • via Mary 5 pitches - 5° sup - A in the sketch
  • via Polvara 3 pitches - 4° sup - B in the sketch

    to the Ago Teresita
  • via Boga (dihedral) 2 pitches - 5° sup / A1/A2 - C in the sketch
  • via Gandini 3 pitches - 5° sup - D in the sketch

    Difficulties as in the sketch ... serious climbs, not to be underestimated ! Just remember that Grignetta is a rock climbing training area ... difficulties are sometimes underestimated

    In the middle part of the via Mary rock is not all safe

    Essential Gear

    2 ropes
    10 carabiniers
    2 stepladders or etriers if you want to climb the Boga to Teresita (strong)

    Useful advice

    Some years ago a big spur on the West side of Guglia Angelina has detached in a big landslide.
    The summital ridge of Guglia Angelina is made by two different summits joined by a very narrow horizontal ridge that, I heard, now is a little dangerous ...
    So, if you climb along the normal route the best descent is along the same route without getting the main summit.

    Difficulty table

    PD3 - 4
    3°inf - 3° - 3° supAD5 - 5.2
    4° inf - 4° - 4° supD5.3 - 5.5
    5° inf - 5° - 5° supTD5.6 - 5.8
    6° inf - 6° - 6° supED5.9 - 5.11
    EX5.11a - 5.11b