this is both a Mountain and a Route page
as for this structure belongs to a "ridge" of a real mountain we can consider it not a separate summit.
|2 of the classical pinnacles in Grignetta Group|
Guglia Angelina is frequentely climbed along its normal route (3° sup) that is various and amusing
This pinnacle is a good school for rappeling .. you can get down with a unique 40 m rappel
(climbing schools used to bring here the beginners to teach it )
Best combination, if you have no time enough to climb them all, is the sequence via Mary (Angelina) and via Gandini (Teresita)
Starting from Piano dei Resinelli follow the road till Rifugio Porta.
Follow the Direttissima
(path 8) till the Canalone di Val Tesa.
Leave, on the left side, the path and start ascending the channel and, before the big slab with fixed rope,
abandon it to gain the small channel on the left side just under the east grey wall of the Guglia Angelina.
5 different fine classic routes to climb these two pinnacles
to the Guglia Angelina
normal route 5 pitches - 3° / 4°
via Mary 5 pitches - 5° sup - A in the sketch
via Polvara 3 pitches - 4° sup - B in the sketch
to the Ago Teresita
via Boga (dihedral) 2 pitches - 5° sup / A1/A2 - C in the sketch
via Gandini 3 pitches - 5° sup - D in the sketch
Difficulties as in the sketch ... serious climbs, not to be underestimated ! Just remember that Grignetta is a rock climbing training area ... difficulties are sometimes underestimated
In the middle part of the via Mary rock is not all safe
Essential Gear2 ropes
2 stepladders or etriers if you want to climb the Boga to Teresita (strong)
Useful adviceSome years ago a big spur on the West side of Guglia Angelina has detached in a big landslide.
The summital ridge of Guglia Angelina is made by two different summits joined by a very narrow horizontal ridge that, I heard, now is a little dangerous ...
So, if you climb along the normal route the best descent is along the same route without getting the main summit.
|2°||PD||3 - 4|
|3°inf - 3° - 3° sup||AD||5 - 5.2|
|4° inf - 4° - 4° sup||D||5.3 - 5.5|
|5° inf - 5° - 5° sup||TD||5.6 - 5.8|
|6° inf - 6° - 6° sup||ED||5.9 - 5.11|
|7°||EX||5.11a - 5.11b|