Another Longs Peak epic

Page Type
Trip Report
Colorado, United States, North America
Date Climbed/Hiked:
Jul 13, 2002
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Created On: Apr 3, 2005
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Me and a buddy had planned for a while to do some sort of climb on the east face. We decided on Stettners ledges then Kieners. We hiked up Thursday with tons of gear. It was a long hike with those heavy packs. I hid behind a boulder and scared the shit out of Jon but he was too tired to jump. We found a cool bivy site and unloaded. We made drinks with Southern Comfort, glacier ice, and Gatorade. We called them Southern Diamonds. I spent hours stressing on where the climb was. I could see the buttress from the bivy but couldn’t figure it out. It was hard to sleep when I could see where we were going to climb from my sleeping bag. We started from the bivy @ 6:00am. Took a pack with crampons, tools, clothes, & 2 qts of water, small rack & 60 meter rope. Lots of rock fall at the bottom of the route. We had to start lower and climb extra. I lead every pitch. Route finding was difficult. The crux pitch was cool, steep 5.7. Rocks were zooming past everywhere, it was cool. Rope drag was the worse I’ve ever experienced, didn't take enough slings. The last pitch was supposed to be 5.4. It was a 40’ vertical crack I could barely climb, it was more like 5.9. I must have been off route. We got to Broadway Ledge @ noon. Getting started on Kieners was difficult. Jon led the way up the Notch Couloir, then up to the right, we were finally on solid ground. We hiked forever up the south side of Longs Peak. We summited @ 4:30pm. Couldn’t find the North Face rap route. Jon and I got separated looking for it. We ended up going down the keyhole. Jon was puking on the way down, probably from dehydration and fatigue. Ran out of water early in the climb. We hiked the last several miles in the dark, no headlamp. It was my idea to take little water and no light, what an idiot. We tried to sleep @ Chasm lake, it was freezing. We just left all of our gear & went to the bivy. Jon found it in the pitch black, I don’t know how. We got back @ 1:30am. The next day I was shaking from fatigue. We did nothing but eat all day. The best part of the trip was naked hippy chicks swimming in Chasm Lake. We hiked out Sunday morning and went to a bar in Lyons.


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slickwilly187 - Sep 3, 2009 2:58 pm - Hasn't voted

Chasm Lake

SKINNY DIPPING?! Musta been kinda... nippy...

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