Anti-jello Crack

Page Type
Route
Location:
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Technical Rock Climb
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
5.10

Route Quality: 5 Votes

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Page By:
Rob
Anti-jello Crack
Created On: Jun 6, 2005
Last Edited On: Jun 6, 2005

Approach


Hike down along the base from the parking lot. The route starts below the huge tree growing from the rock. The start is the same as Tree route.

Route Description



This route is rated 5.10 but a variation avoiding the 20' long crux section on pitch 3 can bring the overall difficulty to 5.9+.

Pitch 1: (5.6) Climb the crack leading up to and past the huge tree. Follow the crack up past the tree about 30 feet and set up the belay at the small ledge at the point where the crack pinches down to finger size. Pro: 1-3" Belay takes medium size nuts and cams to 3".

Pitch 2: (5.9+) Climb the finger crack until it disappears, then face climb up and to the left to a bolted belay. The difficulty of this pitch is very sustained.

Pitch 3: (5.10 or 5.9) From the belay go up about 10 feet then go down into the corner and follow it up. The last 20 feet is very hard 5.10 and placing pro is difficult. It is possible to go to the right, and join the Tree route to the bolted belay. The variation is 5.6. Pro: 1/2" to 21/2"

Pitch 4: Friction climb above the belay passing one bolt. Turn a small overhang and go up to the top. Pro: 1" - 2 1/2"

Essential Gear


Cams to 3" Doubles on 1/4" - 1"
Nuts. Small to medium, with some extras on the small sizes.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.







Anti-jello Crack

Route
4 Images 4 Climber's Log Entries 0 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections

Geography

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Parents

Dome Rock (Ca.)Routes