Approach to the North Face of Mt. Sneffels

Red line shows the approximate location of our climb = North Face Direct, also called North Buttress. It is hard to find enough information about this climb - Gerry Roach has a brief description in his Colorado's Fourteeners book, as well as Lou Dawson in his Guide to Colorado Fourteeners. Hike to the base of the Snake Couloir, work a bit left, and climb an obvious rock pitch onto the buttress. Continue up the buttress, working the left side when necessary. From 13,600', near the dogsleg in the Snake Couloir, take a direct line up the buttress to the summit. Descend to Lavender Col, then down the East Couloir, This is copied from Dawson's Guide to Colorado Fourteeners. Roach does not add much, in his book the rating is 5.6. The climb's greatest difficulties are on the bottom half of the buttress per Roach.