Arch Enemy, 5.9

2nd Pitch- 80’- 5.9/ This is one of the more interesting pitches at Red Rocks. Run up the white hollow (somewhat precarious) flake in the arch. It will be hard to find much friction on the wall during the winter where the sandstone has been scraped by water runoff. There are two bolts on the wall, but the 2nd bolt is eroded and serves little purpose. It is best to focus on finding some pro in the arch at that point. Gravity works against you and makes the crawling up the flake a tad awkward, but eventually you can turn around and face out into a true chimney position on much better rock. Here you will get a few good pieces in, one bomber .75 will be on the wall behind you as you chimney up. Eventually, as the chasm widens, you will flip and face the wall with a great rest stance or two and can place another bomber .5” piece with a double length runner off to your left. Continue through a squeeze section to the top of the arch and walk over to a mid rappel/belay station half way up the 2nd pitch of Solar Slab. (photos)
Arch Enemy, 5.9, 3 Pitches, Upper Solar Slab, Oak Creek Canyon, Red Rocks, NV, February, 2009


Post a Comment
Viewing: 1-1 of 1
Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Oct 27, 2010 10:41 am - Hasn't voted

Re: is this really upsidedown/horizontal climbing?

yes it is, and yes on the heinous, but I do find it favorite link on the wall is Beulahs Book to Arch Enemy to Sunflower....when you pop out of the Arch, if anyone is on Solar Slab, their eyes get as big as saucers! Good Stuff.

Viewing: 1-1 of 1