Arcy Farcy

Page Type
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Sport Climbing, Toprope
Spring, Summer, Fall
Rock Difficulty:
5.10d (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Created On: Jun 20, 2009
Last Edited On: Jun 20, 2009

Approach to Buttress of Cracks Left Side

The main trail to Suicide will dump you out at the rocks lowest point, very close to the Left side of the Buttress of Cracks. Locate a large blank slab over a hundered feet tall, with a easy corner system to the right, which is 5.2 East Buttress Gully.

On this massive slab, Arcy Farcy is the farthest right line with only 3 bolts.

Route Description

Pure friction on small sharp edges and slab up past 3 bolts. This route I am told over the years has lost more and more little flakes in the area of the bolts, and the original rating of 10d is said to be almost 11a now by many other climbers!

There are some nice thank god holds WAY up on the face. The rest of the climb is a precision footwork problem on steep clean granite. The rock seems to get more positive as you go up higher, and the top out to the right of the top thank god hold is fun.

A very serious lead as well, the bolts are well spaced out on this 100 foot slab.

There is a two bolt anchor with chains on the ledge above the slab, which serves anchor for many climbs on the face.

I think it is a must do on the Buttress of Cracks Left side. Great route on beautiful white rock!

Essential Gear

-3 Quickdraws
-Anchor setup

If one would like to work this route on Toprope, either lead up The Hernia 5.8, or the East Buttress Gully 5.2 on the right of the slab. The transition out of the gully onto the sloping ledge where the anchors are is 5.5 and awkward.

First Ascent

Arcy Farcy was done in 1972 by Greg Bender, Phil Warrender, Mike Kaiser and Jim Wilson.

They all were involved in other classic lines in the area.

Arcy Farcy

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