Aries

Page Type
Route
Location:
Washington, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall
Time Required:
Less than two hours
Difficulty:
II 5.9+
Rock Difficulty:
5.9 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:
5
Grade:
II

Route Quality: 4 Votes

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Page By:
Aries
Created On: Oct 18, 2006
Last Edited On: Oct 18, 2006

Overview

2nd pitch


Aries is the classic climb at the Great Northern Slab area. This route features 5 short pitches of great varied climbing on perfect rock with great protection. Climbing ranges from tips cracks to handcracks, fistcracks, slabs, hand traversing, and a flared squeeze chimney.

I bumped the rating on this route from its original "5.8" up a grade to reflect reality. Everyone I've ever talked to laughs at what a sandbag it is.

Getting There

From the parking lot, hike the trail accross the tracks until you hit the first section of rock. This climb starts at the base of the obvious fist crack.

Route Description

1st Pitch
 5.8


Pitch #1 - 5.9 - Jamb up the thin handcrack to below the flake, then commit to the #3 camalot jambs above with no feet initially. Top out on the ledge and belay here. 25 feet

Move your belay over to climber's right to the base of the dihedral.

Pitch #2 - 5.9 - Jamb the clean left facing corner with the thin finger to tips crack in it. The crux section is just below the flake. Grab the flake and climb up and to the right towards the chimney and belay at the fixed bong. 70 feet

Pitch #3 - 5.9+ - Wrestle up the steep and slick flared squeeze chimney using the crack in the back for pro. This pitch can be fully chimneyed out near the edge, but is hard to place gear from here. Belay on the ledge above. 40 feet

Pitch #4 - 5.8 - This beautiful pitch starts by first climbing up to the roof then hand traversing to the left using the perfect hand sized flake. Turn the corner then jamb the nice hand and fingercrack up to the bolted anchors. 70 feet

Pitch #5 - 5.7 - Scramble up to the tree then angle up and to the left on the slab following 2 bolts. Fun edges and small features. Belay from the anchor next to the tree. 90 feet

Down - Rappel down the Great Northern Slab route with 2 or 3 single rope rappels.

Essential Gear

1 set of cams to a #3 camalot
Extras in the .75 to #2 size are nice for pitch #4
Small nuts
60 meter rope

External Links

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Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-2 of 2

laurel

laurel - Sep 10, 2009 7:42 pm - Hasn't voted

spelling nitpick

"jam", not "jamb"

jacobsmith

jacobsmith - Apr 26, 2013 3:47 am - Hasn't voted

Ratings

YDS ratings are relative to the crag, at Index Aries is a 5.8, at Vantage it would be a 5.9+, but its not at Vantage, its at Index. calling it 5.9 creates confusion, if Aries is 5.9, what the hell are Godzilla or Roger's Corner? and then what about Taurus or GNB, are you going to adjust every rating upward? It's not sandbagged, its just an old school rating from back when the system didn't go as high.

Viewing: 1-2 of 2









Aries

Route
5 Images 6 Climber's Log Entries 2 Comments 2 Additions & Corrections

Geography

Routes in Washington

Parents

IndexRoutes