Around the the schrund near the ice wall

After you cross the schrund (delicately), climb this rock wall to gain access to the glacier above it. The glacier above the rock is steep, off camber and the expousre below it means going over the top of the ice wall.

If this is a "wet glacier" (snow covered) no problem, kick steps into the snow and you may not even need spikes. If this is a dry glacier (like August 2001 when Rick Hanners & I climbed it), get your spikes on and plan to put screws in as pro. The descent back down this piece of ice definitely requires some screws as running belays. The last thing you want to do here is lose it and go over the edge of that cliff.


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