EAST APPROACH: From Highway US-395 in Bishop, drive up Highway CA-168 to the North Lake turn-off, just before Lake Sabrina. Park in the hiker parking area, about 1/2 mile below the campground. Hike through the campground and up the Piute Pass Trail a short distance to the Lamarck Lakes Trail. Continue up to the Lamarck Col Trail, which goes left between Lower Lamarck Lake and Upper Lamarck Lake. Hike over Lamarck Col and down through Darwin Canyon to the John Muir Trail, then go left (south) into Evolution Basin. Hike up through the basin, past Evolution Lake, to near the inlet of Evolution Lake.
WEST APPROACH: From Highway CA-99 in Fresno, drive east on Highway CA-168 past Huntington Lake to the Kaiser Pass Road. Continue on Kaiser Pass Road to a 'Y' junction and go right towards Florence Lake. Park at Florence Lake and hike up along the San Juaquin River to the south-bound John Muir Trail junction. Go left (across a bridge) and hike up into Evolution Valley. Continue on the John Muir Trail into Evolution Basin and follow the directions in the above paragraph.
This climb is mostly a Class 3 scramble, with one 100' Class 5 pitch. From the John Muir Trail near the inlet of Evolution Lake, hike east and scramble up ledges on the bench below Mount Spencer. Keep to the northern edge of the bench, then scramble up and right towards a sheer rock face. From a wide, sandy ledge below the face, rope up and climb one of several nice cracks directly up the face. The rightmost crack is 5.6, and ends in an alcove with a 6'-long arrowhead-shaped flake delicately balanced in the alcove. Stem the alcove (DON'T TOUCH THE FLAKE!) and belay in a crown of loose blocks. Scramble the remaining 200' to the summit.
Descend via the Class 2 Southeast Ridge and hike west back to the John Muir Trail.
One 50m rope, some carabiners, a few hexes or cams 1.5" to 4" and some long slings for tying off to large blocks. Rock shoes would be nice, but hiking boots are OK.
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