The easier route.
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We begin in the village descending and crossing the river. After the bridge we turn to left taking the first path on right side. We jump the fence and we walk in the grassy field in direction to the forest. The path doesn’t exist in this area but you must search the rest of path in direction NW walking to exit just under the rocky wall. We walk just under the wall to left side (West) following a few of cairns in the stones. We must search with a lot of attention the entry of the channel in left side (cairns and paint) walking the ramp to a shoulder. In this point is the key of the localization of normal route, a small signal in the rock. We climb the first wall (I+) using the iron stake and we walk to the base of the chimney using a metallic rope in the wall.
The first chimney (6m) is easy (II) but it’s very vertical and you need to use the chain to reach the terrace. In the terrace you need to climb with the chain to walk above the last iron stakes to reach finally the exit of rock-climb.
The rest isn’t hard, it’s an easy walk-up over the ridge, you must be careful because it’s dangerous especially if the grass is wet of the wind is strong. The last part is absolutely beautiful walking over the edge to the summit.
For the descent is very useful to make a rappel in rocky-wall. The rappel has 17 or 18m and the rope of 30m is probably short. The better option is the use of a rope of 60m or two ropes of 30m, but the climbers don’t need a rope using the chain as rappel.
Rope (You need 40m of rope), harness, helmet (it’s a good idea with people in the route above you but generally it’s rare to find a lot of people in this peak). An eight to rappel, one or two carabineers with a string (even if you don’t want to use a rope it’s a good idea to use a string with carabineers to connect with the chains)
In winter (October to February) it’s possible the presence of snow and the ridge is dangerous. You need a few of friends for the exposed ridge with snow and gloves because the chains will be very cold.
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