Successful 2017 climb trip report! https://gethighonaltitude.com/2017/07/14/artesonraju-north-ridge/
Left moraine camp near the small lake at 1 a.m. (4900m), made our way up through the glacier, popped onto the ridge at the second lowest cool, simul-climbed the ridge to the summit at 10:00. Long day, reached camp at 6 pm just before sunset. Beautiful valley and mountain.
Climbed the east ridge from camp on the icy Paron Glacier after wasting a couple hours weaving around crevasses and looking for a reasonable line on the south face in the wee hours of the morning. The east ridge ended up being amazing, my favorite climb in the range to date. Did 14 rappels on the descent, most double rope, most using anchors in place but we did end up constructing a couple of our own. This was one of those days you never forget!
Our team of three made a successful ascent of the east ridge which we accessed via the southeast face. This route was inspired by one of the local guides in Peru and we liked the idea so we went for it. Much more technical than the north ridge route but lots of fun. Left glacier camp at 1am and summitted at 9. 14 rappels later we reached camp and even returned to timber camp as the sun set. Long ass day!!
Some of the worst snow conditions I've ever witnessed. Turned around just short of the wall. Gorgeous mountain and surrounding area (Paron Valley).
Very dangerous snow conditions on the wall. Ueli Stetck attempted two days prior to ourselves and got avalanched on twice, did not summit as well. A beautiful face though.
Two friends and I successfully climbed the North Ridge of Artesonraju in early July 2013. It was our first peak of thd trip so we acclimated on it. We took 2 days to basecamp from CashaPampa and did a carry to 4800m before moving to a high camp at 5100m. It took 9 hours to the summit which was mostly complex glacier travel, then 250m of 55-70 degree ice and snow followed by a dramatic and corniced ridge. The entire climb was 9 days Huarez to Huarez.
This was my first 6000m peak and I found it very rewarding. I highly recommend this route.
Turned around at 5500m due to ice bridge close to collapsing as well as very strong winds. A serious mountain, but gorgeous and challenging. Will be back for sure.
Got screwed up in my head and turned around at 5,400m. I´ll be back for sure. I love this place.
Climbed with MichaelJ. Left moraine camp at 1 am and back only at 6pm. Unfortunately we missed the view because we topped out in a white out (the only hour or so the weather was bad that day). Apparently the view is fantastic from there.
The mountain itself is not difficult but quite strenuous but the descent is genuinely dangerous. An exproportionate number of accidents happen on this mountain mainly because the descent is very long and people get too tired.
Left Moraine Camp at 4am. Simul-climbed the SE face with protections (ice screws/pickets) only for the last pitch. Made the summit at 12:30pm. 5.5hrs later we made it back down to the bottom of the face (much longer than expected at first). Back at Moraine Camp at 8pm. Very fun route...had a blast, and lucked out with the weather and route conditions.
got to within arm´s reach of the summit ridge but turned back due to lenticular clouds moving in and partners was having problem with cold toes. 6 hours from the flat glacier just below ¨high camp¨ and 3 hours of downclimbing. Beautiful mountain.
We found great mixed climbing on a SE arete variant. I added a route description and photos for those who are interested.
Climbed with T. Haines. Started from the Moraine camp. The mountain was in good condition, the weather was beautiful. The snow got better and better the further left on the face we got. Ice broke off from the serac above on pitch nine, not much ice, but a volleyball sized chunk hit my thigh. It is still sore. I was lucky it didn't hit my head and break my neck. We only had one 60m rope because we did not think we were going to climb this mountain and we left our other rope in Huaraz. It took 32 FULL rappels to get down off the face. 32!!! It took just as long to get off the mountain as it did to got on top of it. 16.5 hours round trip, would have been much shorter if we had our second rope!
Climbed with Silvio. Left moraine camp at 1 am. Started up route around 2:30, topping out in a white out at 11:30. Took four hours to rap and down climb the face. A guide left about ten rap anchors in place a few days before. Weather was pretty nice most of the climb, snow so-so and very rotten on the steep pitch below the summit ridge, where I hacked away for a foot until I could place a screw. Fun enough as an acclimitization climb. Seventeen hours camp to camp, with the crux being the crappy scree slog back to the tent.
Climbed with Adam Jones starting from moraine camp at about 1:15AM. We made good time crossing the dry part of the glacier, although Adam managed to find a water hole, soaking his right leg. We reached the bergschrund at around 4:30AM and simul-climbed most of the face, arriving on the summit at 11AM. We descended the face by 15 rappels of 60m from pickets and V-threads and were back on the glacier by 3PM and then back in moraine camp by 5:15PM, making for a 16 hour day. Definitely a beautiful mountain but with a somewhat monotonous route.
I love this mountain.
As 18 y.o. on first international trip, avalanched off just below the summit. brit climber died on route following day.
had to wait in morraine camp for 2 days due to the bad weather that always seems to come with the full moons here. few groups made it to the summit during this time. those that did took between 18-22 hours, there and back!
the weather cleared for us, and we made it to the summit in less than 8 hrs, although route and weather conditions were less than ideal.
the descent took longer than the ascent as we were 4 to 2 ropes. 15 rappels in bitter cold wind. 3 out of 4 of us lost some feeling in our finger tips! still waiting for feeling to return.
the route is great, especially at the top. the majority of the route can be quite tedious, just a steep ice/snow slog. the descent is very very long, so be ready. dont go with 4 people to 2 ropes!
My friends and I waited for two weeks for weather to clear, which never happened. Finally, we headed up the face on our last day in the valley around midnight. It started to snow soon after we left the tents. We made it about a third of the way up (below where the real climbing began), and due to the snow and a bout of dizziness (mine), retreated.
Arteson is a beautiful peak and I'd recommend it to anyone looking for a moderately difficult adventure. I'll be back for a grudge match.