Ascending towards the Pearly Gates


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TheRootster - Jun 19, 2009 11:22 pm - Hasn't voted


I've yet to do this one but I'm intrigued. A lot of people seem to get into trouble on this mountain--maybe just because a lot of people are there, thanks to the proximity to civilization. But my main wonder is this (after not yet doing any research, mind you): Other than the bergschrund, is there any reason to rope up? Isn't that the only crevasse of concern on the mountain? Seems to me many people have gotten into trouble by BEING roped up--one person falls, can't self-arrest, and peels the others off. Isn't this a peak that could easily be soloed by someone comfortable with steeps who could find a way across the bergschrund...other thah traversing questionable snow bridges?


MountaingirlBC - Aug 9, 2009 1:31 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Hood

We only roped up for the bergschrund and the pearly gates. Agree with you re: being roped up in the wrong conditions. My partner and I have climbed together for years and are confident in each other's ability to self arrest so for us, roping up when the runout is spooky makes sense. But I've been in other situations where I chose not to rope up because I felt more confident on my own. Mount Hood is a relatively easy peak with better than average access. As such, it attracts all kinds. There was a guy up there in jeans the day we climbed it and a group who decided to stop for lunch on the snow bridge over the berg (which collapsed only days later). IMHO the other climbers on Hood are likely the greatest risk.

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