Ascent from Italy

Page Type
Route
Location:
Wallis, Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
Glacier/Rock
Time Required:
A long day
Difficulty:
III

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Ascent from Italy
Created On: Jul 31, 2002
Last Edited On: Jul 31, 2002

Approach


Mountaineers of Macugnaga, located at the Italian side of the Monte Rosa, have a hard time climbing one of the many 4000
m peaks. All assents are difficult and dangerous. An exception is the climb of the Strahlhorn.

The foot march starts at the lower station of the Belvedere chairlift at Pecetto (Macugnago). Follow the ugly road that starts
near the chair lift station. Short before Burki stay on the left (northern) side of the Anza river and follow the sign for the Sella hut. Before reaching the granite wall, you see a big waterfall to your right and a path zigzagging south of it. Leave the road and head to the waterfall where you will find this path. No sign! After a flat grassy shoulder follow the yellow sign that shows left to the Sella hut. Enter and cross a gorge. Then an endless zigzag path that starts at 1900 m leads to the Sella hut (Rifugio Eugenio Sella, C.A.I. ) at 3029 m, 30-50 places, guarded in summer. 4-5 hours. (Do not confound with Vittorie Sella hut in the Grande Paradiso region or the Quintino Sella hut of the Lyskamm)

You can also take the chairlift to Belvedere and cross the Belvedere glacier to reach the start of the zigzag path (see plan). No time saving. Glacier can be time consuming.

Route Description


Starting from the Sella hut, the first climb leads to the Schwarzberg-Weisstor (3537 m), a saddle south of the Strahlhorn that connects the valleys of Zermatt and Saas. From the hut follow the track that leads up the spur. At its end traverse horizontally to the right and step on the Roffel glacier above its ice fall. Keep going on the glacier in the same direction before you almost reach the foot of the Roffelhorn ridge. Then you see to right of the signal (and Schwarzberghorn) a snow saddle. Cross the bergschrund and climb it. Then go down the north flank of the chwarzberghorn and reach the Weisstor. 2 hours.

This point can be reached from Zermatt (Fluhalp) and Saas as well. It is also possible to start from the nearby Luino bivouac (3600 m, 8 places) located on the Roffelhorn.

From Weisstor go down slightly on the Findelen glacier to 3500 m and reach the rocks that lead to the point 3807. Cross the snow field towards the Adlerhorn and climb the saddle right of it. Follow the snow ridge to the top. 5 hours from the Sella hut.

Use only the following map: (others are useless for this ascent)
Nr. 1348 Zermatt, 1:25'000 (Swiss)

For the Sella hut you can also rely on:
Monte Rosa, Alagna e Magugnaga 1:50'000 (Italian)
Nr. 284 Mischabel, 1:50'000 (Swiss)

Essential Gear


rope, crampons, axe

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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Flachlandtiroler - Mar 4, 2005 5:39 am - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Best approach to Rif.E.Sella from Macugnaga IMHO is to take the cable car to Monte Moro / Ref. G. Oberto and follow the "sentiero del camosci" (capricorn trail) to Rif. E. Sella. Takes as long as the direct ascent from the valley, but far more rewarding. Easy but sometimes pathless, includes glacier crossing and some scrambling. Superb views, secluded and good acclimatisation (whole trail is between 2800 and 3400m).


We found the Rif.E.Sella guarded as well; AFAIK there is no continous gardien but different people from the valley operate the small hut. So better ask in Macugnaga.





Martin

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Ascent from Italy

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StrahlhornRoutes